Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

The Source, the new Wolfgang Puck restaurant, web site, 575 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-637-6100, across from the National Gallery, on 6th and Pennsylvania, in the modernist office building (next to the Newseum). (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | The Hill | Yelp | Gayot]

Right now this is one of the two best places in town, along with CityZen. Puck’s places tend to decline within a few years (or sooner), so now is the time to go. Get as many appetizers and small dishes as you can, that is also a cheaper way to eat plus you get more selection.

Indebleu, web site, 707 G Street NW, Washington, DC, right at Verizon Center, 202-333-2538, not open for lunch it seems (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | | City Paper | Yelp | Gayot]

This new and trendy restaurant mixes French and Indian influences. First of all, note that the place has been “redefined” since the two times I went. The new reviews are not stunning. But in the old days the dishes were good, some were excellent. The mushroom dosa was superb (it is or perhaps was a must-order). The veal tenderloin is recommended as well. That being said, the bill was very high and I didn’t even stuff myself. The best way to go here is to sit in the lounge and order the bar food, they still will bring you the mushroom dosas, plus get the lollipop lamb tandoori. At this point I don’t know what to say but it is unlikely that a visit is a good idea.

P.S. 7’s, web site, 777 Eye Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-742-8550 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | USA Today | Washington Times | WaPo | MenuPages | City Paper]

I ate here only once, following up on a review by (sic) USA Today. It was surprisingly good. Classy and understated, and not too trendy. Expensive, but not relative to the competition. The short ribs and beef were quite good. The chef used to work at Vidalia, and I believe the place has yet room to get better. Not CityZen, but I’ll go again.

Fogo de Chao, web site, 1101 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-347-4668, Saturday opens at 4:30, Sunday at 4:00 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | MenuPages | Hill Rag | WaPo | City Paper | Wash Times | The Hill | Yelp | Don Rockwell]

A clear first choice for Brazilian right now. Churrascaria. All the meat you can eat. The quality is surprisingly high, and the salting is just right. From a chain based in Sao Paulo. Excellent salad bar. Not the real thing, but closer than I thought they would come. Dinner starts at $44.50, though, lunch starts at $24.50.

Rasika, web site (Flash), 633 D Street NW, near MCI Center, Washington, DC, 202-637-1222 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | food-plan | The Hill | Don Rockwell | Yelp | Gayot]

Right now this is one of the best places in DC. It has declined since opening but it still pretty good. The food here has real taste, much as you might find in India. Nice décor. Many fine touches in the cooking. The best dish is the spinach (somewhat fried or frittered), with corn; better than it sounds. The way to go here is to order starters, chats, appetizers, etc., and avoid the good but less innovative main courses. Good okra, very good cauliflower and I very much like the black lentils. Going all-vegetarian here is not a mistake. Good prawns. Overall a strong entry into Washington’s dining scene.

La Tasca, web site (music), 722 Seventh Street NW, Washington, DC, right across from the MCI / Verizon Center, 202-347-9190 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Also a branch in Arlington, near Whole Foods, 2900 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-812-9120

I like the cheese plate, and a few dishes, but most of the tapas are mediocre. A place where yuppies go to drink.

Mayur Kebab House, 1108 K Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-637-9770 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

A good kabob place, especially for DC.

Tony Cheng's Mongolian Restaurant, 619 H Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-842-8669, usually open. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo (Phyllis Richman) | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Grill and hot pot. You choose your own stuff and cook it. Good, and worth doing once, but it does not attain sufficient heights to bring one back. Boring, plus you have to work at it.

The seond floor is Tony Cheng’s Seafood Restaurant.

Rosa Mexicano, web site (music), 575 Seventh Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-783-5522, a small chain (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Gayot]

I went once, and was not impressed. It is better than your local chicken fajitas, but much more expensive. It doesn’t come close to what comes out of my own kitchen. The interior is nice, though, and some people will come here for the location and the singles scene. The real eater should head to Kenilworth Avenue (Riverdale/Hyattsville, MD).

Andale, web site, 401 Seventh Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-783-3133 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

NOW CLOSED

Zaytinya, web site (flash), 701 9th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-638-0800 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WBFN | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Has received much attention and a few awards. It is uneven, much variety, and many of the dishes have genuinely new ideas. Not just the same old stuff. Lots of vegetarian. Get the mezzes. Overall I feel the place is in decline, having become too trendy. Note also that the dining room is too noisy and crowded, even on weekdays.

Mehak, web site, 7716 Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, 703-573-8076 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Yelp], also a DC location: 817 7th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-408-9292 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Update August 13, 2006: Mehak is closed.

A good Indian restaurant, believe it or not they used to serve Italian food also. Not the area's best, but good enough to enjoy, with a good branch in DC too.

Poste Modern Brasserie, web site, 555 Eighth Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-783-6060 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | The Hill | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Kobe beef and sea salt, it must have some potential.

Indebleu, web site (flash and music), )707 G Street NW, Washington, DC, right at MCI Center, 202-333-2538, not open for lunch it seems (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | The Hill | bourrezvisage | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | Yelp | Gayot]

This new and trendy restaurant mixes French and Indian influences. I went here once. All of the dishes were good, some were excellent. The mushroom dosa was superb (it is a must-order). The veal tenderloin is recommended as well. That being said, the bill was very high and I didn’t even stuff myself. The best way to go here is to sit in the lounge and order the bar food, they still will bring you the mushroom dosas, plus get the lollipop lamb tandoori. Recommended, but it is pricey for what you get. Not for everyone but it will have its partisans.

Les Halles, web page, 1201 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-347-6848, open 11:30 to midnight, every day. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A good French steakhouse, with the onglet as the entree of pride. Not cheap, but a real treat. Also get the mashed potatoes with gravy, as well as the Creme Brulee for desert. The best French Fries in town as well. Consistent.

Ten Penh, web site, 1001 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-393-4500 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Pan-Asian, sort of, and run by Jeff Tunks, a food god. Can be excellent, but you take a big chance here for the price. Most go away disappointed, your best bet is the lamb chops. When it hits the spot, one of the two or three best places in town.

Bistro d’Oc, web site, 518 10th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-393-5444, across from Ford’s Theatre (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist]

Recommended by a credible-sounding reader.

Oceanaire, web site, 1201 F Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-347-2277 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Hobnob Blog | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Economist | Don Rockwell | Gayot]

Has first-rate seafood, one of my favorite places right now. They do for fish what Morton’s did for steaks. That description might put you off, but you should try it anyway, it is really very good. Noisy and draws a hideous crowd, but don’t let that put you off.

Crabcakes

Swordfish

Asparagus and whole red potatoe sides

Le Paradou, web site, 678 Indiana Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-347-6780 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | The Washington Diplomat | openlist | Gayot]

This is Yannick Cam’s place. I am sure it is pretty good (the lamb chops have been recommended), but lately I’ve been going to Paris a few times a year. So why should I spend my dollars here? By the time I want to go, it will be gone or otherwise in decline.

Ginger Cove/Ginger Reef, 822 E Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-248-6007, 202-248-7733, the two phone numbers are for the two separate places. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Closed

Ginger Reef is only for Friday and Saturday nights, get the picture? These are party places for yuppies to buy alcohol. Flights to Haiti are quite cheap those days, so why are you visiting these restaurants? If you must go, try the appetizers. The sad thing is, these people once ran Fish Wings n’ Tings, in the good old days. They keep on reinventing the same restaurant, with successively higher prices and lower quality.

Cafe Atlantico, web site, reopened near Chinatown, 405 Eighth Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-393-0812, previously the restaurant was in Adams-Morgan. No weekend lunch. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | The Hill | WaPo | WashTimes | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The premier nouvelle Latin and Caribbean restaurant in this area. Eclectic and wide-ranging. Get the Cuitlacoche, a delicious Mexican corn fungus. The Jamaican jerk chicken is good as well, as does the quail and the Brazilian dish. Cafe Atlantico was once well-known for attracting the most beautiful women in Washington, but this is no longer true. It has cycled chefs a number of times, so I am never sure what to expect.

They also now have a “restaurant within a restaurant”, called Minibar, web site, 202-393-0812. The place takes many chances, and doesn’t always hit; it's OK but if you travel at all save up your money for NYC or Europe. [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | Augieland]

Burma Restaurant, 740 6th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-638-1280, Chinatown, not open weekend lunch. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

I've had better Burmese in other countries (New Zealand and Taiwan), but most people think this is pretty good. You won't regret going, but it is not much of a draw for me. Burmese cuisine, as you would expect, lies somewhere between Indian and Thai. The dishes are all based on good ideas, but I found the execution imperfect. Maybe I should try it again.

Capital BBQ, web site, 707 H Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-347-8396 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

I know, a barbecue place with a web site is not an encouraging idea. But the food here is OK, Texas style. Get the beef brisket with the spicy sauce. Not perfect, but this is better Texas barbecue than we deserve.

Jaleo

• 480 7th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-628-7949 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]
• Plus a branch in Bethesda: 7271 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-913-0003 [WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

Near the MCI/Verizon Center, and trendy. Spanish tapas, some of which are quite innovative. Not every dish here is a total winner, but still a worthy part of the repertoire, especially if you know how to order. Many claim this is not up to previous glories, and maybe they are right, but still it can be enjoyed.

Zengo DC, web site, 781 7th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-393-2929 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell]

Richard Sandoval and Placido Domingo own this place. Modern Mexican mixed in with Pan-Asian, one of the best places in town. The look is very stylish, and reminds the visitor of Manhattan or Mexico City. A hip crowd. The hamachi is superb, also get the empanadas; don’t say “I don’t like empanadas, they are dull, crusty things.” Swallow each arepa in a single bite. Not cheap, but for what you get it is reasonably priced.

Full Kee in DC's Chinatown, 509 H Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-371-2233 [Washingtonian | WaPo | NYT | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Gayot]

The snow pea pod leaves here, or whatever they are called, are great. As are the dumplings in the soup. Some mediocre dishes, but if you order well this place is a knock-out. Mostly Cantonese. Written up by The New York Times as one of the most interesting places in DC.

Full Kee in VA, just off Leesburg Pike and Columbia Pike, across route 7 from Borders Books in Baileys Crossroads Center (in the same shopping center as Trader Joe's at 5847 Leesburg Pike) 5830 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-575-8232 [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Citysearch]

So far better than the original in DC, it is excellent Chinese food. Be adventurous when you order. Excellent lobster, dumplings, tofu dishes. Critics laud the casseroles, and while they have their merits, they don’t give me much visceral enjoyment along the yummy dimension. For casseroles, go to Hong Kong Palace.

Tony Cheng’s Seafood Restaurant, 619 H Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-371-8669, Chinatown, usually open [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

This place used to have some good dishes but now it is in decline. If you must try the oyster casserole and the scallops in wine sauce, plus other house specials.

Chinatown Express, 746 Sixth Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-638-0424 [Washingtonian | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist]

Maybe the best place in Chinatown right now. Make sure you order the noodles. Good soft-shelled crab. Excellent dumplings. Not as good as Joe’s Noodle House, but if you are stuck in DC you will enjoy this place. Small, and draws a crowd, so go early.

Lei Garden, web site, 629-630 H Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-216-9696 [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Citysearch]

NOW CLOSED. Formerly a favorite of Washingtonian magazine. Good enough to be good, but no better than that. Dominated by various alternatives, Mark’s Duck House has better dim sum, for one.