Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

Bombay Indian Restaurant, web site, 11229 New Hampshire Avenue, White Oak Shopping Center, Silver Spring, MD, 301-593-7222 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper]

This place has gotten very good reviews and in fact it is now one of the premier Indian restaurants around. Very consistent with some Kashmiri inspirations. Rich spicing, though without being too hot. The bread with the cherries and nuts is one special dish you can get here but most of it is excellent. It's not near anything else you might visit, but worth the trip.

Peking Eastern House (Dong Lai Shun), web site, 617 S. Frederick Avenue, Gaithersburg, MD, 301-963-1426 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [This is Gonna Be Good | zabihah | Gazette.net | Yelp]

This is a real Chinese Muslim restaurant! I liked the humburgers [sic] best of all. Get lots of meat dishes, get lots of cumin, get noodles. Ask for help. Don’t let them pawn off their standard “Chinese” food on you. Be aggressive and firm. Just don't expect any pork...

Brazil Market, 11425 Grandview Avenue, Wheaton, MD, 301-942-8412 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian]

They have Brazilian sandwiches, snacks, canned goods, and fried yucca thingies. Not an amazing selection but if you are yearning for a touch of Brazil this does in fact supply it.

Hollywood East Cafe on the Boulevard, web site, 2621 University Blvd., Wheaton, MD, 240-290-9988 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | Yelp | Gayot]

Right now this is the best dim sum place around. They don’t just churn out the usual stuff, they are consistently interesting and make the dim sum with care. At times you might be frustrated by the delays, but that’s part of the signal of quality. First-rate greens too. I might add that they make stuff in batches, and you should stick around for about two hours, and save up space in your stomach, rather than filling up right away. Go slow, slow, slow, and make an afternoon of it.

Paul Kee, 11305-B Georgia Avenue, Wheaton, MD, 301-933-6886 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

One of the best Cantonese places around, although you hardly ever hear of it. Excellent seafood. I like the scallops in pepper sauce, among other dishes. There are also the casseroles, and make sure you get some greens to round out the combination.

Ceviche, web site (flash and music), 921-J Ellsworth Drive, Silver Spring, MD, 301-608-0081 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Silver Spring Voice | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell]

I went here with about seven people and sampled many dishes. I thought the rice was quite good, the ceviche pretty good. They have lots of Peruvian dishes you can’t find elsewhere. All a good recipe, but somehow I ended up a bit underwhelmed. I wouldn’t mind going back, but I’m not pushing to either. It’s in “that part” of Silver Spring and appeals almost exclusively to yuppies. It’s missing a certain edge. It’s still pretty good, though, and never to go is probably a mistake. Not super cheap like some ethnic places, but cheaper than most other places for yuppies.

Bob's 88 Shabu Shabu, 316 N. Washington Street, Rockville, MD, 301-294-5888 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | Don Rockwell | Gayot]

The Chinese consider 88, like 66, to be a lucky number, of course this is also the Bob of Bob’s Noodle 66, one of the best Chinese places around. Shabu refers to dipping your food into a boiling pot to cook it. In general I am opposed to this idea, rarely are the results very interesting. But this is a worthwhile restaurant.

You must get your boiling mix to be “very spicy,” then you must order the most complex combination of stuff possible to put into the mix (this will depend on how many people you have). The results are genuinely delicious. I thought the fish was especially good. I might add there is a second menu, small but similar to part of the 66 place, which taken alone would make this one of the best Chinese restaurants around. No matter which route you wish to go, this place is worth trying.

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Indique Heights, web site, 2 Wisconsin Circle, Chevy Chase, MD, 301-656-4822 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | MenuPages | City Paper | Gayot]

From the people who brought you Indique. I used to love Indique, but I fear the brand is being diluted. This one is pretty good, and certainly worth trying. The Fried Syrian Lamb is a very good dish or appetizer, especially if you don’t mind strong cardamom. But I just don’t feel the same excitement here as I did at Indique when it opened. The restaurant is defined by small plates, which is a good sign. I am told you should try the shallot potatoes. And it is a very nice place to sit, and the best restaurant in its immediate area. For me it is lacking that excitement factor, though I liked what I had.

Mama Leah's Gourmet Pizza (kosher pizza), web site, 4836 Boiling Brook Parkway, Rockville, MD, Randolph Hills Shopping Center, 301-770-1781, their hours observe the Sabbath (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

I am told this is only OK.

Aling Pacing, 2311 Price Avenue, Wheaton, MD, 301-933-7070, not always open for lunch on weekdays (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Is this place closed?

See the remarks above on Filipino food under Little Quiapo. This one looks less appetizing, however, although it is easier to find. Oxtail and peanut sauce are often good Pilipino dishes, adobe too.

El Pulgarcito del Callao, 11333 Elkin Street, Silver Spring, MD, 301-942-5395 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

Peruvian, El Salvadorean, and Mexican dishes, but Peruvian at its core. I have yet to try it.

Julita’s Restaurant: A Spanish Flavor, 6521 Riggs Road, just a bit away from University Blvd., Hyattsville, MD, 301-559-0958 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

I have yet to go. Supposedly it has Spanish and Caribbean food, drop me a line if you have been there, the place does not appear to fit the usual categories.

Crisfield's, web site, 8012 Georgia Avenue, Silver Spring, MD, 301-589-1306 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Just off Georgia Ave. Plain fish of high quality. The Art Deco architecture and atmosphere is stunning. Is this 1953 or what? Great clock. Order the Flounder stuffed with crabmeat. Don't expect so much from the salads or soups, however. Not cheap, but a treat. The accompanying visit to Silver Spring is an object lesson in how Maryland and Virginia differ. A great place to bring visitors who want to see something they will remember.

Royal Mile Pub, web site, 2407 Price Avenue, Wheaton, MD, 301-946-4511 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp]

Let’s hope they can fit as many Indians into that place as possible, as quickly as possible.

Temari, 1043 Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD, 301-340-7720 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Highly authentic, too authentic some would say. Right next to a Japanese store and Japanese supermarket; patronized primarily by Japanese. More a cafe than a restaurant. If pork cutlet doused in ketchup is your thing, this is the place to go. Here you will encounter the other side of Japanese food.

Rainbow, 312 E. Diamond Avenue, Gaithersburg, MD, 301-947-0099, open daily 11-9 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

I don’t usually cover the dining paradise that we call Gaithersburg, but West African places are hard to find. I have yet to go. The cooks are from Ghana and Sierra Leone.

Izora, 1115 East-West Highway, Silver Spring, MD, 301-495-2960 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Silver Spring Voice | Washingtonian | openlist | Yelp]

UPDATE May 20, 2006: A commenter says Izora is closed, replaced by Gallery with Carribbean and Latin food, web site, 1115 East-West Highway, Silver Spring, MD, 301-589-2555. I haven't been.

Or is this place Caribbean? Should it go under Nigerian? East-West Highway is prime territory for undiscovered spicy food, let me know if you visit this place.

Congress African Restaurant, 6834 New Hampshire Avenue, Takoma Park, MD (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

This place looks like a total dump and when I drove by it was closed. A report would be welcome…it appears to have promise…

Green Papaya, web site (Flash), 4922 Elm Street, Bethesda, MD, 301-654-8986, near Woodmont Avenue (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The Maryland equivalent of Minh’s. Good enough if you live too far from Eden Center, but frankly I feel sorry for you. Ten years ago Maryland had better ethnic food than Virginia, now the reverse is clearly true.

Roger Miller Restaurant, 941 Bonifant Street, Silver Spring, MD, 301-650-2495 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Silver Chips Online | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp]

I love the name (named after a Cameroonian football player). It is probably the best general African restaurant around right now, although it is not the best we have had in the last ten years. The chef is from Cameroon, but you will find dishes from Senegal, Nigeria, and Ghana as well.

Thai Seafood and Grill, The romance Restaurant, web site, 2732 Crain Highway, Waldorf, MD, 301-932-4388 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

I’ve given up adding random Thai places to this list. There are too many of them, and too few are unique. But an avid reader recommends this one, plus Wheaton and environs is probably the best neighborhood for Thai restaurants. I bet this one is worth a try.

Benjarong, web site, 855-C Rockville Pike, Wintergreen Shopping Center, Rockville, MD, 301-424-5533, closed Sunday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A very good Thai place, somewhat more expensive than most but also nicer than average and better than average.

Dusit, 2404 University Boulevard West, Silver Spring, MD, Wheaton, 301-949-4140 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Wheaton is an ethnic food center, and here is one of its Thai places. There are many Thai places in Maryland, and as far as I can tell, they are all excellent.

Suporn, web site, 2304 Price Avenue, Silver Spring, MD, 301-946-7613 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

One of the best Thai places around, it has real bite. Thai food is going the way of Chinese food, where most restaurants have the same menu and same taste. Not this one. Most of the dishes sound ordinary but don’t be put off by that.

Sol de Espana, web site, 838-C Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD, 240-314-0202 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A new Spanish place, from the former managers of Andalucia, in Bethesda. In other words, they had to lower their rent, so they reinvented their place. The core problem is that our Taberna is one of the best Spanish restaurants in the world outside of Spain. So why visit the others? But if you do, get the shellfish.

Cancun, 11260 Georgia Avenue, Wheaton, MD, 301-949-9838 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

Mostly a Mexican and El Salvadorean restaurant, but they serve some Puerto Rican specialties on weekends. Sleeveless shirts are not allowed, that kind of place. Alas, no mofongos, however, which means not enough garlic for my taste.

See also Banana Café, under Cuban, they have some Puerto Rican dishes.

Tavira, web site, 8401 Connecticut Avenue, Chevy Chase, MD, 301-652-8684 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Here’s my theory of Portuguese food: go to the Ironbound section of Newark, otherwise forget it, at least outside of Portugal and Fall River, Massachusetts. This place gets good reviews, but I expect it to struggle. And at $17.95 an entrée, why bother unless it is truly fine? Let me know if you go and find out.

Ceviche, web site (flash and music), 921-J Ellsworth Drive, Silver Spring, MD, 301-608-0081, closed for weekend lunches I believe. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Silver Spring Voice | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell]

Somehow I doubt if this place is good but I guess you should…um…get the ceviche.

See the update, February 2008

Sam's Restaurant and Cafe, 765 Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD, 301-424-1600 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Stews, kabobs, lamb shank, special rice dishes. Sounds pretty good, I have yet to go, one reader claims they make the best gelato in the DC area.

Paradise Restaurant, 7141 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-907-7500 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

NOW CLOSED

Tacos Pepito's Bakery, web site (Gaithersburg, MD location), 1762 Columbia Road NW, Washington, DC, 202-232-7121, Adams-Morgan (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo (DC) | The Burrito Blog | WaPo (Gaithersburg) | Yelp]

Also at 107-B East Diamond Avenue, Gaithersburg, MD, 301-990-1541

Recommended on Chowhounds, I have yet to go.

Skewers, web site, 9736 Traville Gateway Drive, Rockville, MD, 301-279-6999, off Shady Grove Road (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Washingtonian | City Paper | food-plan | Yelp | Gayot]

Supposed to be an above-average kabobs place.

Tabeer, web site, 1401 University Boulevard East, International Mall, upper level, Langley Park, Hyattsville, MD, 301-434-2121 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The menu resembles that of Food Factory. Whenever I am in the neighborhood, I cannot resist going to Udupi Palace or Woodlands (Indian).

BD’s Mongolian BBQ, web site, 7201 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-657-1080, between Bethesda and Willow Lane (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Silver Chips Online | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

A chain.

I haven’t been, mostly the concept just doesn’t attain high enough heights. The best Mongolian barbecue I had was in Taipei.

Samantha’s, 631 East University Boulevard, Silver Spring, MD, 301-445-7300 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Silver Chips Online | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Gives every sign of being a yummy, upscale version of a mom and pop restaurant. There is only one catch: the food is bland and uninteresting. Nor is it cheap, as Mexican food goes. A disappointment. A bit Pan-Latin, but not in any way to its advantage.

El Boqueron Restaurant, 2311 Price Avenue, Wheaton, MD, 301-933-4900 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper]

Another Mexican/El Salvadorean place. I haven’t eaten here, but it looks decent.

Chipotle, web site, numerous area locations. [Washingtonian | WaPo | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

OK, let’s get the bad news out of the way up front. This is a chain. Even worse, it is a chain owned by McDonald’s corporation, the fount of culinary evil. That being said, it is pretty good. Fresh and relatively authentic Mexican food, you tell them how to put together your meal. The salsa is genuinely spicy. The carnitas are the best meat. Not much choice, but you don’t need it. I’d rather eat here than almost any other Mexican place on this list.

Matamoros, 2322 University Boulevard West, Wheaton, MD, 301-949-2929 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | Yelp]

Mexican food by non-Mexican Latins. Above average for the area, but no great shakes overall.

Toritos, 4936 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-654-6007 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [openlist | Yelp]

An object lesson in everything that is wrong about Mexican food in the United States.

Moby Dick House of Kabob, web site, 6854 Old Dominion Drive, McLean, VA, 703-448-8448 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Multiple locations in DC, MD, and VA, including

• Georgetown (1070 31st Street NW, Washington, DC, Wisconsin Ave. south of M, 202-333-4400)
  
• Bethesda (7027 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase, MD, 301-654-1838)
  
• Fairfax (12154 Fairfax Towne Center, Fairfax, VA, the mall with Tower Records and the UA theatre, 703-352-6226)

Good kebabs, tasty food, and the best ethnic place in McLean. But simply not the best kabobs place, the meat here somehow has just a bit less taste. The bottom line is they manage to make it in McLean, ultimately not a good sign. Still, going here is better than eating American-style fast food.

Tia Queta, 4839 Del Ray Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-654-4443 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

I am told they have moles and real Mexican food, I am skeptical but will go to find out.