Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

Indique Heights, web site, 2 Wisconsin Circle, Chevy Chase, MD, 301-656-4822 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | MenuPages | City Paper | Gayot]

From the people who brought you Indique. I used to love Indique, but I fear the brand is being diluted. This one is pretty good, and certainly worth trying. The Fried Syrian Lamb is a very good dish or appetizer, especially if you don’t mind strong cardamom. But I just don’t feel the same excitement here as I did at Indique when it opened. The restaurant is defined by small plates, which is a good sign. I am told you should try the shallot potatoes. And it is a very nice place to sit, and the best restaurant in its immediate area. For me it is lacking that excitement factor, though I liked what I had.

Green Papaya, web site (Flash), 4922 Elm Street, Bethesda, MD, 301-654-8986, near Woodmont Avenue (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The Maryland equivalent of Minh’s. Good enough if you live too far from Eden Center, but frankly I feel sorry for you. Ten years ago Maryland had better ethnic food than Virginia, now the reverse is clearly true.

Tavira, web site, 8401 Connecticut Avenue, Chevy Chase, MD, 301-652-8684 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Here’s my theory of Portuguese food: go to the Ironbound section of Newark, otherwise forget it, at least outside of Portugal and Fall River, Massachusetts. This place gets good reviews, but I expect it to struggle. And at $17.95 an entrée, why bother unless it is truly fine? Let me know if you go and find out.

Paradise Restaurant, 7141 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-907-7500 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

NOW CLOSED

BD’s Mongolian BBQ, web site, 7201 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-657-1080, between Bethesda and Willow Lane (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Silver Chips Online | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

A chain.

I haven’t been, mostly the concept just doesn’t attain high enough heights. The best Mongolian barbecue I had was in Taipei.

Chipotle, web site, numerous area locations. [Washingtonian | WaPo | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

OK, let’s get the bad news out of the way up front. This is a chain. Even worse, it is a chain owned by McDonald’s corporation, the fount of culinary evil. That being said, it is pretty good. Fresh and relatively authentic Mexican food, you tell them how to put together your meal. The salsa is genuinely spicy. The carnitas are the best meat. Not much choice, but you don’t need it. I’d rather eat here than almost any other Mexican place on this list.

Toritos, 4936 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-654-6007 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [openlist | Yelp]

An object lesson in everything that is wrong about Mexican food in the United States.

Moby Dick House of Kabob, web site, 6854 Old Dominion Drive, McLean, VA, 703-448-8448 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Multiple locations in DC, MD, and VA, including

• Georgetown (1070 31st Street NW, Washington, DC, Wisconsin Ave. south of M, 202-333-4400)
  
• Bethesda (7027 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase, MD, 301-654-1838)
  
• Fairfax (12154 Fairfax Towne Center, Fairfax, VA, the mall with Tower Records and the UA theatre, 703-352-6226)

Good kebabs, tasty food, and the best ethnic place in McLean. But simply not the best kabobs place, the meat here somehow has just a bit less taste. The bottom line is they manage to make it in McLean, ultimately not a good sign. Still, going here is better than eating American-style fast food.

Tia Queta, 4839 Del Ray Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-654-4443 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

I am told they have moles and real Mexican food, I am skeptical but will go to find out.

Penang, web site, 1837 M Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-822-8770 (on the corner of 19th and M Streets NW, just down the block from Malaysia Kopitiam) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Also 4933 Bethesda Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-657-2878, Bethesda branch has better hours. [Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Pretty good, but not as good as the sister branch in New York City (Penang: 109 Spring Street, New York, NY, 212-274-8883; Nyonya: web site, 194 Grand Street, New York, NY, 212-334-3669).

It’s still the best Malaysian you’re likely to get this side of Asia, so count your blessings. Some of it is too sweet for me and not spicy enough, but sometimes rigorous instructions can overcome this problem.

Levante, web site, 7262 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-657-2441, also 1320 19th Street NW, Dupont Circle, Washington, DC, 202-293-6301 [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Some of the dishes here are OK, but if you like this place you are reading the wrong food guide. Ethnic food for yuppies with bad taste. Let’s hope that’s not you.

Bacchus, web site, 1827 Jefferson Place NW, Washington, DC, 202-785-0735, closed Sundays. A bit south of Dupont Circle, doesn't open for dinner until 6:00. There is also a branch in Bethesda: 7945 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-657-1722 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Traditionally it has been the area's ruling Lebanese restaurant. Very good on all counts, especially the appetizers. I love the chicken in yogurt sauce with pomegranate seeds. Not cheap, but worth it, this restaurant is a favorite for many people.

Update: Now closed.

Red Heifer, 4844 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-951-5115 or 301-951-1083 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian]

CLOSED - Flanagan's Harp & Fiddle is there now, 301-951-0115

A reader describes it as “Kosher upscale.” The Washington Post recommends the Rib-Eye steak.

Matuba, web site, 2915 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-521-2811, also 4918 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-652-7449. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Good sushi, though no longer dominant as it once was. Now just another good place.

Delhi Dhaba, web site, 2424 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-524-0008, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian], other locations: 7236 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-718-0008 and 4455 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-537-1008 [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The food simmers in front of you at the counter, and you order what you want. Weekend buffet. Very quick, very cheap, good atmosphere, good Indian videos and TV programs - this place fills a niche. Not the finest, but I like it. That said, many of the other local Indian restaurants and improving and this place isn't, so take note.

Passage to India, web site, 4931 Cordell Avenue, near Old Georgetown Road, Bethesda, MD, 301-656-3373 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Gayot]

Truly excellent. This used to be a branch of Heritage India, but now it is run by the original founder. It offers unique Indian regional specialties. In fact only here in this area can you eat specialties of Bombay and Calcutta, among other parts of India. This place is more like a high-class Indian restaurant of India than anywhere else around. Highly recommended, and make sure you get the regional specialties.

Las Margaritas Bar and Grill (formerly Costa Del Sol), web site, 4906 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-656-2561 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Chef Moz | openlist | Yelp]

They claim to be Honduran as well as Salvadorean and Mexican. Maybe, but you would have to read Leibniz on the identity of indiscernibles to prove the point. One of the few really ethnic places in Bethesda, plus it has above average pupusas. I also like the black beans soup with onion.

Athenian Plaka, 7833 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-986-1337 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Bethesda Magazine | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Comes recommended by a reader, and by Washingtonian. My sixth sense suggests that it is better than most of its kind, but it is not on my short list for a visit.

Persimmon, web site, 7003 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase, MD, 301-654-9860 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

I’ve yet to go, but Randy Kroszner likes it.

Pierre's, web site, 4926 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-652-7757 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Gayot]

Stewed oxtail, jerk pork loin with pumpkin gnocchi, etc. The City Paper published a somewhat snide review. I would not expect to find a genuine Caribbean place in this part of Bethesda, so I vote no.

New Orleans Bistro, web site, 4907 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-986-8833 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Gayot]

I am told they serve Fried Green Tomatoes (menu).

Louisiana Express, web site, 4921 Bethesda Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-652-6945 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Gayot]

Washington magazine recommends it. I do not trust them, but how bad can it be? Many of my readers like this place.

Raku, 7240 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-718-8680 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Yelp | | Gayot]

More Japanese than anything else. I used to like the old incarnation, I have yet to go here.

Bistro Asiatique (web site), 4936 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-718-3400 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | Gayot]

Has to be overpriced for what you get, I have yet to go.

Divino Lounge, web site, 7345-B Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 240-497-0300 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist]

Meat. I have yet to go.

Faryab Afghan Cuisine, 4917 Cordell Avenue, between Norfolk and Old Georgetown, Bethesda, MD, 301-951-3484 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

I’ve yet to go but I bet it is good, Afghan food is close to a sure thing.