Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

Sea Side Crab House, 6799 Wilson Blvd., #5, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-CRAB (2722) (where Saigon Garden used to be) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Don Rockwell]

An excellent seafood house in Eden Center. The soft shell crab is some of the best around. The crawfish are served Cajun style, although not as spicy as you would get in southwest Louisiana. It’s small and not a great place to sit and chat inside, but absolutely worth having in the repertoire. Outdoor seating is available. Right now it is my go-to choice for crabs. Make sure you use lots of the lime, salt and pepper sauce they give you.

Ariana Kabob House, web site, 9738 Fairfax Boulevard, Fairfax, VA, Rt. 50, just west of Fairfax Circle703-865-7610 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

It’s a delight to have this place so close to my house. Real Afghan food, excellent all around and yes they have kadu and aushak and the like. Get the Mantu.

It’s not quite as good as Star Restaurant Banquet, on Rt. 236, but it is well above average.

Meaza International Market/Restaurant, web site, 5440-42 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-820-2870 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo (Eve Zibart) | City Paper | Yelp]

[update December 2007: new entry and located at 5700 Columbia Pike]

Yummy in taste and original in execution, the kitfo is great here and the place even looks nice. The best Ethiopian in this entire area, every dish here is strong.

La Sandia, web site, Tysons Corner Center, Level 1, McLean, VA, by Barnes and Noble at the end opposite Bloomingdales (in blue on mall map), 703-893-2222

The new Rick Sandoval place, it opened in May of 2008. I went during the first week and thought it was clearly the best Mexican place around. Sandoval places don’t stay great for long, so now is the time to go.

It’s traditional Mexican rather than fusion but genuine and with high quality ingredients. The tortillas are excellent as is the guacamole and the queso fundido; make sure you use the sauce on the latter, and in a tortilla. I liked the chile relleno, the skirt steak tacos, and especially the carnitas. The chicken tamale was disappointing. The prices are entirely reasonable and in fact cheaper than the other restaurants in that lower level Tysons area. The existence of this place makes me very happy. Beware the crowds, however, at peak times it is very hard to get in here and they don't take traditional reservations.

Sangam, Johnson Center Food Court (GMU map | Google map), GMU, Fairfax, VA

That's the new Indian food place in the Food Court, at the Johnson Center at George Mason University. It's excellent, at least so far, thereby making it the first good food at GMU, ever. I'd put it in the top quarter of local Indian restaurants, though I expect time and the crowds to take its toll. The vegetarian sampler is the best dish and they serve Halal food as well. The samosas look overfried. The analytical question is why this took so long to happen, or alternatively why it has happened at all. I have read there is also a wave of innovation in hospital food as well.

[Run by the folks who own Sangam Restaurant, web site, 1211 N Glebe Road, Arlington, VA (in the Comfort Inn), 703-524-2728 [Yelp]]

Desi's Chicken and Steak, web site, 10801 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax, VA, 703-865-8150 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Right now this is the best Peruvian place around. It looks terrible, as if it’s trying to cater to the worst sort of American diner. But the chef can’t help himself. The Lomo Saltado is first-rate, the soups excellent. The chicken is pretty good, though not #1. The rice and seafood dishes are quite good. Go, and go now. Many other restaurants in this space have gone under, it has not been a stable space since the old days of Pars.

Halalco Supermarket, web site, 155 Hillwood Avenue, Falls Church, VA, 703-532-3202 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Zabihah]

Located inside a Pakistani supermarket, this place is so authentic it closed completely for the month of Ramadan. It’s probably the most authentic Pakistani place around, truly spicy, a bit oily, they serve organs too. Not my #1 Pakistani place but I will go a third time and maybe yet again. It is recommended for those who want to go the nth degree, not for those who seek mainstream ethnic food. It is best to go during peak hours when the buffet is most fresh. There is lots of Islamic material in the supermarket, it is a very religious place, the people are very friendly.

Star Restaurant Banquet, web site, 7203 Little River Turnpike, Annandale, VA, 703-750-2450 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

An authentic albeit underpopulated Afghan place, with a huge room for weddings and banquets. Their plans and their achievement seem totally out of scale. That said, it could be the best Afghan place to visit right now. Very good kadu, not too sweet. Their bready things are yummy, I quite liked the third appetizer, the pastry stuffed with leeks, add yogurt on top. The meats are not so tender but they are very tasty. How long can this place last? Should you be discouraged by the thought of entering a huge cavern and not even being greeted by a hostess? Who knows? Enjoy it while you can.

[former location of Po Jang Ma Cha]

Meaza, 5700 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-820-2870, I’m not sure about the number on Rt. 7, it is what their card says but some people tell me it is wrong. [This place was formerly at 5440 Columbia Pike: previous TCEDG entry]. In any case it is on Columbia Pike just east of Route 7 by Circuit City (which address is 5710 Columbia Pike). (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [chowhound | Yelp]

Excellent, excellent Ethiopian, maybe as good as the DC dumps. But it’s a nice restaurant too. The fish tibs you can’t get in other places. First-rate kitfo. Wide variety. A clear #1 Ethiopian for Virginia and yes it is pressing on the DC places too. Attached to a coffee shop, plus they have Ethiopian music on some nights. Definitely recommended, although perhaps I would prefer if the dining room had more light.

Cee Fine Thai Dining, web site, 9901 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax, VA, 703-293-9898 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Yelp | Gayot]

Above average Thai, good mee krob, more whitebread atmosphere than most, slightly more expensive than average. This is a good place to bring people who expect the restaurant to be “nice,” although it can’t compare to Thai Square, much less Thai X-Ing.

Kim Ngan, web site, 6755 Wilson Blvd., #24, Falls Church, VA, Eden Center, inside the row of stores to the right of the mall, a small place, 703-538-2474, closed Wednesdays. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

Excellent pho but more notably has some of the area’s best “crushed rice” dishes. They have numerous good noodle and small dishes and pork chop dishes here, a fun restaurant, good for when you’re not in the mood for the Eden Center standbys.

Vietnam Imports, 922 West Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, Rt. 7, right next to Panjshir, 703-867-9635, ask for Lilian (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Yelp]

Yes they cook Indonesian food, home cooking, the real thing, but only Saturdays from 10 or so until not very late. And not every Saturday at that. The noodles are wonderful, beware the cold satay. Worth going if this is what you crave. The “restaurant” is simply a few tables in the back of the ethnic grocery, probably without proper license, etc. Recommended, but please don’t expect this to be a real restaurant. For some dedicated readers it will satisfy the Indonesian craving.

Bolivian Bakery, 6184 Arlington Boulevard, Falls Church, VA, Willston Shopping Plaza, right next to Mark’s Duck House, 703-531-0777 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [openlist]

The “subtitle” of this restaurant is “Palacio del Silpancho”. How can you hate a place like that? This is not the very best silpancho but it is at least at the area average and sometimes above it. Maybe it is too salty in parts. But this is a very sympathetic restaurant and they have lots of fruit drinks too. Worth an occasional visit.

Eamonn’s--A Dublin Chipper, web site, 728 King Street, Alexandria, VA, 703-299-8384 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | MenuPages | City Paper]

Have I ever told you what a fish and chips fanatic I am? I scoured New Zealand for a year, looking for the best fish and chips (and found it). I had amazing fish and chips, on the street in the town’s central plaza, in Bergen, Norway. That was the highlight of my entire trip. So my standards are high. And I’m pleased to report that I really enjoyed this place. The fish is very good, enough said. The mushy peas are first-rate. No, it’s not as good as the best in Kiwiland but I remain shocked by the quality and I am happy to recommend it. NB: Tables can be hard to get, so go when the pressure is off.

Majestic Rosa Nautica, 2922 Annandale Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-538-8888, 703-538-8885 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

The dining hall is huge, indeed cavernous and the waitresses are skimpily clad. Drunk Peruvians watch soccer on huge screens. I had to wait a long time before being served. The fish in my pescado saltado was falling apart. They have music at night, and on a few web sites are listed as providing “adult entertainment.” (Not when I was there.) Dance lessons too.

Are these auspicious signs or not? Well, the kitchen does “get” the fundamental essence of Peruvian seafood and they do serve it fresh. I’ll go back, but when I’m in a patient mood. So far I give this one a thumbs up, but I can’t imagine how they can afford to pay for so much space.

Ibex Restaurant, 3813 E & F South George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, no phone given. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

A vibrant Ethiopian place in my favorite ethnic mini-mall (Skyline). The quality is uneven but nothing is bad and the very best dishes are very good indeed. Get the firfir and the qitqit. Get any dish that is laden with lots of injera (bread) and it will be first-rate. Not everything hits the spot here but I am definitely keeping the place in my repertoire.

Chinese-Korean (Kyung Ju Restaurant? - sorry the business card is in Kangul only!), 2847 Gallows Road, at Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, in the strip mall with the H Mart, 703-645-8787 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

This place gives a good overview of Chinese-Korean food, a bit gooey, a bit sweet, and with liberal use of ketchup. I don’t like the genre, but I don’t want to put you off trying it. The staff is friendly and charming, plus they have some regular Korean dishes as well. For me it is a dominated asset, but if you never went it would be a shame.

Annandale Cafe, 133 E. Annandale Road, Falls Church, VA, between Hillwood Ave. and S Washington St, though to me it looks like it is on Hillwood, 703-237-7275 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)
[MenuPages]

I love this place, which right now is the best Bolivian food around, despite being a bit on the dark and dingy side. I can’t imagine how they handle crowds and I suppose they don’t. The Saturday peanut soup is the best around, lots of pasta in it. The meats are very fresh. The plates are large. The authenticity level is high. They also pretend to have a connection to Argentinian food but it really is mostly Bolivian. Right now this place is a clear first choice in its category.

Hong Kong Palace (formerly Saigon Palace), web site, 6387 Leesburg Pike, Seven Corners Center, Falls Church, VA, 703-532-0940, Sun - Thur: 11 am - 10 pm, Fri & Sat: 11 am - 11 pm (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Yelp]

This is probably the best Chinese place around and it just keeps on getting better. Mostly it is Sichuan and yes do ask for the special Chinese menu if they don't give it to you right away. Get the lamb with cumin, the beef with bamboo shoots, the flounder in pepper sauce in hot pot, the ma po tofu, the potatoes with green pepper, the tiger pepper, the Dan Dan noodles, the dried beef appetizer, and the chengdu dumplings appetizer, the spicy version in black vinegar. The menu has many other treasures as well. The specials are usually very good.

BonChon Chicken, web site, 6653 Little River Turnpike, #H, Annandale, VA, 703-750-1424 [Don Rockwell]

Is it the best fried chicken I've had? I didn't even mind the forty-minute wait, though now I know to call ahead, as the Koreans do. Get it with both sauces - soy and garlic, and hot --and be sure to ask for the kimchi.

Here is the NYT on Korean fried chicken. It's also healthier than you think: crunchy, spicy, and non-greasy.

Wild Chicken, web site, 11039 Lee Highway, Fairfax, VA, West Fair Shopping Center, in the rear, this is the hardest place to find in this whole guide, it is simply behind the big buildings facing the main street, 703-383-0266 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

They have Peruvian chicken, a 7 on a scale of one to ten. On Monday there is Lomo Saltado, Tuesday has Aji de Gallina, and Friday has Seco de Carne (beef stew with cilantro). Those dishes are quite good, and occasionally on offer other days as well. An intriguing mom n’ pop, and certainly worth trying at least once. They also offer unusual (and tasty) Latino ice creams, seasonally.

Chima Steakhouse, 8010 Towers Crescent Drive, Suite 100, Vienna, VA, 703-595-7755 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Yelp]

The new Brazilian steak house, churrascaria, very stylish, draws a mod crowd of wealthy Latinos and sometimes Arabs. Lots of fun, not cheap, the lamb and the pork caked in cheese are the best. The salads could be improved. I like Fogo de Chao better, but because of proximity, and a Brazilian-loving daughter, I’ll end up going here yet again.

Fairouz Mediterranean Café, web site, 3815-A S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-845-7929 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

A mix of Tunisian and Lebanese dishes, I have yet to go. They have okra on the menu, foul, chopped liver, stuffed quail, and lots of kabob platters.

La Rue 123, web site (music), 4023 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax, VA, 703-691-2266 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

Near Le Tire Bouchon and in the old Bailiwick Inn.

Classic French, they go out of their way to be boring but the quality is high. I tried the beef tenderloin, the shrimp, and the sea bass. All were excellent, I liked the sea bass best. A good place to take clients or job market candidates, especially if others are paying. Not my kind of thing, but some people will love this place.

Fu Mei, in the Great Wall Chinese grocery store (大中华) on Gallows, between 29 and 50 and right by Five Guys and Peking Village, 2982 Gallows Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-208-3388 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

Fully authentic Chinese comfort food, the meats are quite good, the noodles too, the chow fun (chow foon), all for Chinese tastes; the food lies in the direction of oily Cantonese, not sea cucumber. Definitely recommended, and an A+ for atmosphere. They have only a few tables, all the more reason to go.

Abay Market, 3811-A S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-998-5322 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Now this is an interesting place. They have only three dishes: raw beef, and I do mean slabs (tere sega), not chopped kitfo, lamb soup, and slightly cooked kitfo (mostly raw). That’s it. All come with bread, sauce, and spices. The lamb is pretty fatty, the soup is tasty.

No doubt this is the best raw beef emporium for miles and miles around. It will disappoint those who seek side orders, vegetables, or indeed anything else. A+ for atmosphere. Ask for their assistance in eating the food.

Recommended, but you’d better know what you are looking for.

Also see "Cuisine of Ethiopia" on Wikipedia

Sambo Restaurant, 6669 Little River Turnpike, Annandale, VA, 703-750-6846 (old review) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) Here's the old review.

The place just reopened with new management, it is now “Chinese-Korean” food, a genre that in general does not thrill me. Too many fried things, too much sweet sauce, and that occasional inappropriate use of ketchup. Still many of you will wish to try this place, if only to see how Chinese food is consumed in Korea.

They don’t offer sushi any more, it is a totally different place.

Merrifield Kabob, web site, 8428 Lee Highway, Fairfax, VA, 703-204-4400 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Yelp | zabihah]

More of a dump than you would expect, given the location. The core influence here is Pakistani, and shady characters smoke hooka during the off-hours. This kind of food is almost always good enough to enjoy, but so far this place doesn’t compete with Ravi or Food Factory or my other favorites of similar ilk. Go for locational reasons, that makes sense, a special trip not.

Tian Chinese Restaurant, inside Lotte Plaza, 3250 Old Lee Highway, Fairfax Circle, Fairfax, VA, Closed Mondays, 703-246-9198

This is in the same place as Cheogajip Chicken.

Cheogajip Chicken, Lotte Plaza, near the deli in the supermarket, 3250 Old Lee Highway, Fairfax Circle, Fairfax, VA, 703-273-4499, usually open. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo also see this | Washington Area Korean Restaurant Guide]

This in the same place as Tian Chinese Restaurant.

See also "Koreans Share Their Secret for Chicken With a Crunch," by Julia Moskin, The New York Times, February 7, 2007

Other locations: in the Korean Mini Mall at 13814 Braddock Rd, Centreville, VA; and 4300 Evergreen Lane Suite 102, Annandale, VA.

Korean fried chicken comes to this area, finally. Very moist and juicy and they cook it fresh, that means a 15-minute wait. This isn’t the very best Korean fried chicken I’ve had, but the idea is a phenomenon and if you haven’t had it before, do give it a try. It comes in regular, sweet, spicy, and herb, so far I’ve only tried the sweet.

Cheogajip Chicken is one of Korea's largest chicken franchise with 1,200 franchises in Korea.

Cheogajip Chicken has been loved by everyone for its classic, mouthwatering taste, which was developed through 17 years of experience.

Cheogajip USA was established in March of 2005 and opened its first restaurant in Annandale, Virginia in October 2005.

Soon after, in March 2006, a second restaurant was opened in Centreville, Virginia, followed by a third in Flushing, New York in April 2006.

In order to reach more customers, we are planning to expand with more restaurants throughout the East Coast this year and in the earlier part of 2007, we will spread out to the West Coast starting with Los Angeles.

Born Restaurant, web site, 144 Maple Avenue West, Vienna, VA, 703-255-5800, closed 3 to 5 weekdays. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

I dislike most suburban Thai these days. It is too sweet and too trendy. This place is different. It’s not as good as my favorites, but it’s well above average. They are still trying to give the food strong and genuine tastes. It is not as spicy as I would like, but I can go here with a clear conscience. Try the appetizers and soups. A good alternative if you are looking to eat Thai near Vienna, though don’t go expecting Thai X-ing or Columbia Pike.

This is where La Provence used to be.

East of Magruders and west of Rose Restaurant

Steamed Wasabi Shumai, so so

Tom Yum Goong, outstanding

Larb Gei, OK

Thai Spicy Basil - too sweet; make sure you ask for the spicy fish sauce

Rose Restaurant, 126 W. Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-255-9696 or 703-255-2557 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Falls-Church News Press | Chowhound]

Yes this is from the folks who brought you the old Café Rose, in Falls Church. The new incarnation is brighter, quicker, and has a broader menu. The eggplant appetizer is first-rate, the yogurt dipping sauce for the bread excellent. The two stews are both good, the best kabob is the lamb, one of the best kabobs around right now, very juicy. Very low prices, in terms of value-added this is a real winner. The velvet paintings on the wall only add to the atmosphere.

Grill Kabob Express, 11213-J Lee Highway, off Rt.29, Fairfax, VA, 703-569-7259 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp | Yahoo]

I like their buffet better than their kabobs. Good chick peas, spinach, bread, tasty rice, fresher vegetables than found on the other Afghan buffets. Not a perfect restaurant, but worth visiting if you live or work in the area. The kabobs are “good enough,” but not competitive with my two or three favorites.

Update June 22, 2007: The hamburger meat with the lentils, on the buffet, is my favorite.

Yas Bakery, and Gourmet Groceries, 131 A West Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-242-2800 or 703-242-4050, across from Magruder’s, not easily visible from the street. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [insider pages]

I don’t usually cover ethnic groceries, but they bake their own bread and it is #1 in the whole area. First you grab a number, then you wait, sometimes up to fifteen minutes if there is a crowd. It comes out fresh, piping hot, absolutely delicious. Worth a visit, and yes you will come back. It doubles as northern Virginia’s best grocery.

Bebo Trattoria da Roberto Donna, web site, 2250-B Crystal Drive, Arlington, VA (Crystal City), 703-412-5076 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | WETA | City Paper | Don Rockwell | Yelp | Gayot]

Where Oyamel used to be. It offers Italian home cooking, with varying qualities of food and service – until Galileo is renovated – it is being overseen by Roberto Donna. He is best when he is not trying too hard. Relatively inexpensive, and get the simple dishes. As a bonus they are open Saturday lunch. Lots of people claim they've had very bad service here. I would call it risky and leave it at that.

A Taste of Burma, 126 Edds Lane, Sterling, VA, off Rte. 7, 703-444-8511 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Gayot]

This place is supposed to be very good. As usual, in a Burmese place try some of the salads. The Post recommends the Singapore noodles as well, and the noodles more generally.

India Curry House, web site, 3181 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, right near Clarendon Metro, 703-527-3444 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

This place became crowded right after opening, and it is easy to see why. High-quality Indian buffet food, at reasonable prices. I wish they had more regional dishes, and perhaps someday the