Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

Eyo Restaurant and Sports Bar, web site, 3821-B South George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-933-3084 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

This unassuming locale is one of the two or three best Ethiopian places at the moment. Furthermore they serve Ethiopian breakfast, starting at 10 am, though sometimes interpreted flexibly by management. Their foul is simply superb and more generally you can’t go wrong with anything here. This single strip mall in Virginia is raising Ethiopian food to an entirely new level and making the trip to 9th Street obsolete. This place is also a favorite of the local cab drivers.

Me Jana, web site, 2300 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-465-4440 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | Don Rockwell | NoVA Mag | Yelp]

Right now this is a clear #1 in the Lebanese department. The sausage, and dishes involving fatty meats, are especially good. As is the raw meat. Simply an excellent restaurant, tasty all around, and the best place to eat in the Courthouse area short of Ray’s Hell Burger.

Café Assorti, web site, 1800 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-465-0036, open at 8 am for breakfast, through to 9 or 10 pm (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Wash Times | Menu Pages | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

It’s called Kazakh food but in reality I know a lot of Russians who eat exactly this stuff. Vegetable salads. Pelmenyi dumplings. Crepes. Cutlet. Etc. But you know what the problem is? This place is right across the street from Ray’s Hell-Burger. Since my in-laws cook this food for me, I always head for Ray’s. I look forward to your reports.

Yaku, web site, 1900 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-248-0844, Court House Metro (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | MenuPages | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

This is a nouvelle fusion chifa Peruvian place, with pretensions of a nice interior. The aji de gallina is OK and some of the ceviche-related appetizers are OK but overall the place did not impress me. It’s not good enough to be a really good place and also has no mom n’ pop value. The short ribs were terrible and in general the more Chinese dishes were uninspired. There are worse fates than eating here, but most of all it convinced me that I should cook more often.

Thai Thai, 5123 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, 703-533-1964 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [menuism | insider pages | Yelp]

This place has new ownership and has been renovated. It’s now quite good and attracts a Thai clientele. I quite like the beef with pepper and garlic (#33) and the fried shrimp with fried green beans. The other dishes are good too. I wouldn’t rate this with the very best Thai places around, but it’s way better than the median and it still has room to get better.

Pike Grill, 3902 Wilson Boulevard, right by Gold’s Gym, Arlington, VA, 703-243-0279 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

Above-average Bolivian, one of the best silpanchos around with a properly moist egg. Recommended, a fun place.

La’Jawab, 5151 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA (just east of George Mason Drive, west of Glebe), 703-532-4104 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [MenuPages | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

Could this be the best Pakistani place around right now? The haleem is excellent and the wok dishes are very good too. Vegetables taste fresh. Recommended. If it takes them a little long to serve you, it is because they do everything the right way from scratch.

Ray’s Hell-Burger, 1713 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-841-0001, open for lunch only on weekends, I believe 5 p.m. dinner on weekdays. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | menuism | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

All they have is hamburgers and they don’t even have a side of French fries (you can get corn on the cob or potato chip or potato salad). It’s the best hamburger around by an order of magnitude. Yes, it is worth paying a $4 or $5 supplement for the specialty cheeses on the cheeseburger. I like the Amish cheddar but consider the Epoisses as well. The quality of the burger and the cheese here really just stunned me. By 12:15 on a Saturday the place is already chaos but somehow it seems to work. Order your burger at the counter and then be prepared to stand at a table (of sorts) and eat it. Not a place to sit and chat but who needs social pleasantries when the burger is so good? The ice cream is first-rate as well.

Update February, 2009: Ray’s Hell-Burger is still at 1713 Wilson, but Ray's the Steaks has moved a few blocks west to 2300 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-841-7297. They take reservations at the new location.

Meaza International Market/Restaurant, web site, 5440-42 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-820-2870 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo (Eve Zibart) | City Paper | Yelp]

[update December 2007: new entry and located at 5700 Columbia Pike]

Yummy in taste and original in execution, the kitfo is great here and the place even looks nice. The best Ethiopian in this entire area, every dish here is strong.

House of Biryani, 5151 Lee Highway, Arlington, 703-532-4104, 11 to 10

A hole in the wall biryani house, quite authentic, quite good. All halal, the owner is from Bangladesh. They will make it spicy if you ask. The haleem is quite soupy though still yummy. Biryani is the thing to get, goat too. This is not a perfect high quality restaurant, but if I lived nearby I would go all the time.

India Curry House, web site, 3181 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, right near Clarendon Metro, 703-527-3444 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

This place became crowded right after opening, and it is easy to see why. High-quality Indian buffet food, at reasonable prices. I wish they had more regional dishes, and perhaps someday they will. I've yet to try from their regular menu. This place is right near my office in Arlington, and it has rapidly become a lunch favorite. My only complaint is that sometimes the line for the buffet gets too long.

Tandoori Nights, web site (Flash), 2800 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-248-8333 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Wash Times | City Paper | Yelp]

Remember how Clarendon was once the epicenter of good ethnic dining? Well, those days are long since gone.

Avoid the Tandoori here. Some of the vegetable dishes are not bad. Don’t think this substitutes for any of the real Indian places around. But some of you will be caught short in Clarendon, wondering where to go, and tempted to try this. What can I say? You should be in your car driving down to Minerva. But you’re not. Boo-hoo. Give Tandoori Nights a try, but don’t complain to me if you go home disappointed. The décor is nice.

Buckingham Center is located on the east side of Glebe at Pershing in Arlington, VA, a few blocks north of Rt. 50 / Arlington Blvd., and about a mile south of I-66.

Ravi Kabob House, 305 N. Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, 703-522-6666

Bangkok Siam, 307 N Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, 703-524-0711 [Washingtonian]

RinConCito, 303 N. Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, 703-807-0025

Casa Mia, Lalibela, 3111 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA not too far from Glebe Road, 703-920-9500 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [openlist]

The second best Ethiopian place in Northern Virginia. Reliable, and adequately spicy. Not as good as what you find in DC, but a good introduction to the cuisine. In 2002 they moved into their larger quarters, in a former Italian restaurant. Incongruities abound, but they add to the charm of the place.

Rinconcito Chapin, 303 N. Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, in Buckingham Center, 703-807-0025 or 703-525-3836 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

The menu here is like that of an El Salvadorean restaurant, except without the Pupusas. So why go? You might want to say you have been to a Guatemalan restaurant. Otherwise this place, while not bad, is not up to the competition.

Pio-Pio, 3360 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA, 703-465-5200 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Good rotisserie chicken, and look for the chicken standing outside the front, waving a large placard.

Montserrat, Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, between Rt. 50 and I-66.

I went once and found the meat too tough, though the red beans and rice were excellent. The place has potential, but still needed to work out some kinks.

Update May 26, 2006: A commenter says it is open and located at 85 North Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, just north of Rt. 50, across the street from the McDonalds.

SoBe Seafood Co., web site, 3100 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-528-0033 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist]

In the trendy part of Arlington, which usually spells death for food. The Washington Post says it is “pretty good, not great.” Some of the dishes have a vaguely Caribbean tinge.

Restaurante El Salvador, 4805 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-521-3225 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper]

One of the best Salvadorean places, in a universe of dozens. Juicy pupusas, nice atmosphere. Also get the corn tamales, tamale de elote. When going to an El Salvadorean restaurant, always order the pupusas. Always order the pupusas. Always order the pupusas. A Pupusa, for the uninitiated, is a Salvadorean "pancake," made of corn-based bread, stuffed with meat, cheese, or both. Make sure you put lots of spicy cabbage on the top (called “curtido”). The cheapest good meal around, also. They have some Peruvian dishes, too.

Atlacatl & Pupuseria, 4701 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-920-3680, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

In decline, and no longer the best El Salvadorean in the area. The herb pupusas are still good, though. If you’ve never had this kind of food before, still good enough to be a revelation. Nice funky décor, too.

Minh's Restaurant, web site, 2500 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, at Cleveland Street, 703-525-2828, the Virginia branch of a small chain (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Along with Nam-Viet, one of the better Vietnamese places in Clarendon. More yuppie than most, a deliberate attempt at outreach. For me, this is ultimately a turn-off; although the food here is reasonably good, it is a little more expensive than it need be.

Nam-Viet, web site, 1127 N. Hudson Street, Arlington, VA, 703-522-7110 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Economist | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Other locations:

• 3819 Mount Vernon Avenue, Alexandria, VA, 703-548-0440
  
• 3419 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202 -237-1015

Maybe the best Vietnamese place in Clarendon, currently. Clarendon, however, is no longer the area’s center for Vietnamese food, Falls Church is, especially in and around the Eden Center. My favorite here is the caramel pork in ginger sauce.

Atilla's Restaurant, web site, 2705 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-920-6524 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

[newer TCEDG entry]

Turkish food, tied to an ethnic grocery, doner kebab on Fridays and Saturdays.

Manee Thai, web site, 2500 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-920-2030 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

An excellent Thai place, in the Columbia Pike Thai row.

Thai Square, web site, 3217 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, just east of Glebe (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Wash Times | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

I've been going to this place quite a lot lately. It is one of the three or four best Thai places around, and probably the one most popular with Thais. Excellent atmosphere, lots of small Thai kids. The best satay around, without a doubt. The best green curry. Very original pig's knuckle dish with fragrant spicing. Very highly recommended. Not as fancy as Duangrat's but in some regards a more durable restaurant.

Bangkok 54, web site, 2919 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-521-4070 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A reader recommends. I have yet to go.

Across the street from Rincome Thai.

Fried Soft Shell Crabs

Penang

Pad Cha from the Sea

Mango Sticky Rice

Rincome Thai Cuisine, web site, 3030 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-979-0144, in the Travel Lodge (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Lately it has been too sugary. That being said, I will take the sugary Mee Krob. Attached to a hotel. One drawback: you have to take an elevator up to the second floor for the bathrooms. But not up to the other Thai places on the same road in the same area. By the way, a reader recommends Bangkok 54 across the street.

Ghin Na Ree, 2509 N. Harrison St. and Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, 703-536-1643, closed Monday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A classic mom and pop. They even let the small child have one of the tables for her toys and crayons. Charming decor, and one of the most authentic Thai places around. Is this the best Thai place in the area? No. Is it worth going anyway? Yes. Spicy.

La Tasca, web site (music), 722 Seventh Street NW, Washington, DC, right across from the MCI / Verizon Center, 202-347-9190 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Also a branch in Arlington, near Whole Foods, 2900 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-812-9120

I like the cheese plate, and a few dishes, but most of the tapas are mediocre. A place where yuppies go to drink.

Costa Verde, 946 North Jackson Street, Arlington, VA, 703-522-6976, near GMU Metro campus, across from the gas station, usually open. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A good Peruvian place that has gotten better with time. Very good ceviche de pescado and very good seafood, my favorite is the Pescado Saltado but most dishes are excellent. Recommended. Use lots of the green sauce.

El Pollo Rico, 932 Kenmore Street, Arlington, VA, 703-522-3220, near the GMU Law School, they have moved from the old location. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp]

You have to admire any restaurant that has only one item on the menu. One of the best chicken places. Maybe the best chicken. And certainly the best fries. But no yucca. On the negative side, the portions are smaller than in many places, and it doesn’t always come piping hot. Great for people-watching.

(Peruvian chicken is "pollo a la brasa')

Kabob Bazaar, web site, 3133 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA, 703-522-8999, just across from Clarendon Metro (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

The best ground beef kabob around, period.

The daily stews are great, too. Doesn’t look like much, but this place is excellent. Addictive. And don’t be afraid to get the ground beef kabob, which in most other places is just boring. Here it could be the best dish. With the barberry rice, if they have it that day, they usually do on Thursdays or Fridays.

Ravi Kabob House, 305 N. Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, 703-522-6666, a few blocks north of Rt. 50 at Pershing in Buckingham Center, a small row of shops (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | zabihah | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The best kabob and Pakistani restaurant around. The meat here is superb. Plus the chicken and lamb karahi dishes are excellent, but don’t believe them when they say it is enough for two people, it isn’t. A hole in the wall, mom and pop sort of place, but high quality all around and very authentic.

Update May 31, 2006: They're opening an additional place across the street at 250 N. Glebe Road, next to the CVS.

Lamb Kabob, with salad, rice and chick peas, and bread

Food Factory, 4221 North Fairfax Drive, Arlington, VA, 703-527-2279, usually open. Turn left at North Stuart, coming from the west on 66, and park in the back. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | zabihah | WaPo - Phyllis Richman | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Don't let the name scare you off - this is a real ethnic restaurant. The kabobs and the breads are very tasty. The chicken, of course, should be ordered on the bone; it is tenderer that way. I prefer the chicken to the lamb. And use as much of the spicy green sauce as possible, let it seep into your bread! (You should even ask them for an extra serving of the spicy green sauce.) The spicy hamburgers (chapli burgers) are not bad either. The scooped buffet dishes vary in quality, but usually you can tell by sight. Weekends they serve Haleem, a Pakistani speciality. Haleem is a move in the direction of simply ingesting the spices directly and removing the intermediary of the food. This place now draws a pretty “white” crowd, but the quality remains high.

For people-watching Food Factory is first-rate. Go Saturday at lunch time, but there is almost always something interesting going on among the clientele. Do note that they tow cars away very easily from the parking lot, so don't run off and take a walk. If they call to have your car towed, they won't be very apologetic (or very polite) afterwards.

Update: It is now a hookah bar and the old Food Factory you used to know and love is gone, gone, gone. Sorry to report this. They do still have some Pakistani food.

Cassatt's, A Kiwi Cafe, web site, 4536 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, in the strip mall with Arrowine and Crisp & Juicy, 703-527-3330 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo (scroll down) | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The atmosphere is amazing reminiscent of a New Zealand café, including the art for sale. New Zealand has the world’s best seafood and this place does not, but it is still above average for the area. For me it has significant nostalgia value as well (I once lived in Wellington). Monday is fish and chips night, I have been meaning to try that. This place definitely has its fans, very homey in a nice way, gets crowded for lunch.

El Charrito Caminante, 2710-A North Washington Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-351-1177, between Pershing Drive on the north and the 7-11 on the south, on the west side of Washington Blvd. (the right side as you're leaving Arlington toward I-395) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

Looks, smells, and feels like a real taqueria. The goat tacos are first-rate, probably the best Mexican dish you can get in Virginia, at least outside of Oyamel. Next in line are the loroco pupusas, but many of the dishes here are no better than ordinary, noting that “ordinary” ain’t so bad. N.B.: there are four high stools and a small amount of counter space, this place is mostly take-out. I also get the passion fruit juice to drink.

El Charrito Caminante

El Charrito Caminante Goat Taco

Chicken Burrito

Beef Burrito

Chipotle, web site, numerous area locations. [Washingtonian | WaPo | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

OK, let’s get the bad news out of the way up front. This is a chain. Even worse, it is a chain owned by McDonald’s corporation, the fount of culinary evil. That being said, it is pretty good. Fresh and relatively authentic Mexican food, you tell them how to put together your meal. The salsa is genuinely spicy. The carnitas are the best meat. Not much choice, but you don’t need it. I’d rather eat here than almost any other Mexican place on this list.

Guajillo, web site, 1727 N. Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-807-0840, near Rosslyn, by the Citgo, in the strip mall, 703-807-0840, usually open. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

It has received consistently good reviews. If you don’t know the real thing, you will be pretty happy here. If you do know the real thing, you will know they are at least making a valiant effort. A quasi-yuppie Mexican place, not a hole in the wall, the mole is probably their best dish. The sauce is excellent though the chicken ends up a bit dry. Check out the amates on the wall.

Crisp & Juicy, multiple outlets [WaPo | 10Best | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Citysearch | Gayot]

• 4540 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, on the corner of Lee Hwy and N. Woodrow Street, 703-243-4222 [Hobnob Blog]
• 913 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-9091 [Falls Church News-Press | Tarting it up]
• 1331-G Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD, 301-251-8833
• 3800 International Drive, Silver Spring, MD, 301-598-3333

Many of my readers like these places, I have yet to go.

Crisp & Juicy, 4540 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA

913 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA

Crisp & Juicy, , half of whole chicken dinner

Crisp & Juicy, , half of whole chicken dinner

Crisp & Juicy, chicken breast sandwich with everything on it

Crisp & Juicy, whole chicken

Crisp & Juicy, black beans and rice, fries, and salad

Layalina, web site, 5216 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-525-1170 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Reasonably good food, but a bit overpriced to me, not a place I am enthusiastic about.

Lebanese Taverna, web site, 5900 Washington Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-241-8681, not far from Falls Church (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Economist | Silver Chips Online | WBFN | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Gayot]

Other locations

• 2641 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-265-8681
  
• 1840 G International Drive, Tysons Galleria, McLean, VA, 703-847-5244
  
• 1101 South Joyce Street, Pentagon Row, Arlington, VA, 703-415-8681 (online maps show wrong location - Pentagon Row is south of I-395, at the corner of Army Navy Drive and South Joyce Street)

Very tasty Lebanese food. Draws an older, more traditional sort of Virginia crowd. Don't let them put you off. Good yogurt sauce, especially when pomegranates are involved.

Gua-Rapo, web site (flash), 2039 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-528-6500, Courthouse area (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Supposed to be Nuevo Latino. Looks like a place for poseurs. I refuse to go here.

Atami, 3155 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-522-4787, Clarendon metro area (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

NOW CLOSED. They have both Japanese and Vietnamese food, and have been in decline for some time now.

Matuba, web site, 2915 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-521-2811, also 4918 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-652-7449. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Good sushi, though no longer dominant as it once was. Now just another good place.

Pines of Naples, 3205 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-521-5039 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

Quasi-Italian food, cooked by Pakistani and Brazilian owners. Not for everyone, but draws a steady crowd of regulars.

Saran Foods, 5151 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, 703-533-3600 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

Very cheap south Indian food, larger than usual selection of dosas. A hole in the wall, but worth a visit.

Update June 1, 2006: A commenter reports that they've moved a few doors away to 5177 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA

Delhi Club, web site, 1135 N. Highland St., Arlington, VA, 703-243-6522, right at Clarendon Metro (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Perhaps you thought we had so many good new Indian places that we don’t need another one? You were wrong. The food here is excellent, quality ingredients, and somehow the feel and cooking differ from the other places on this list. It reminds me of how Indian food often tastes in the UK. I like the cardamom dishes best, and yes it is from the same people who do Bombay Curry Company in Alexandria.

Sangam, web site, 1211 N. Glebe Road, at Washington Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-524-2728 (in the Comfort Inn Ballston) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist]

Above-average Indian, though more costly than many. Has both North and South Indian dishes. Draws a very white crowd. Has many loyal fans. I have no complaint with the place, but somehow I don’t feel compelled to go back.

Delhi Dhaba, web site, 2424 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-524-0008, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian], other locations: 7236 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-718-0008 and 4455 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-537-1008 [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

The food simmers in front of you at the counter, and you order what you want. Weekend buffet. Very quick, very cheap, good atmosphere, good Indian videos and TV programs - this place fills a niche. Not the finest, but I like it. That said, many of the other local Indian restaurants and improving and this place isn't, so take note.

Little Quiapo, 4807 North 1st Street, Arlington, VA, 703-528-3194 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp | Gayot]

Hard to find - there are eight 1 Sts. in Arlington, and this doesn't seem to be on any of them. I once spent an hour looking for this place and finally had to give up. Several months later I found it on my own. It is located in the Arlington Forest Shopping Center, where there is an Outback Steakhouse also. Coming from the intersection of 7 and 50, go east on 50, turning left at Park, which is maybe your sixth (?) light (Park is between Carlin Springs Road and George Mason Drive). You'll see the mall then.

Filipino food is best enjoyed when served in homes and at weddings. Most Filipino restaurants I have been to (usually in Los Angeles) have been disappointing. Oxtail in peanut sauce can be too fatty and only brings you so far. The lumpia (a bit like spring rolls) are often good, but they're not that special either, at least not in America. Milkfish is no treat in my book.

In spite of all that, this place is pretty good. I like the Adobo very much, and the small lumpia. But beware when you order - even dedicated fans of ethnic food will not like much of what is on the menu. Strong fish sauce - not the sweetened Vietnamese version - abounds. High marks for atmosphere, by the way. And one of the cheapest places on this list, which is saying something.

Bistro des Celestins, web site, 6876 Lee Hwy, Arlington, VA, 703-534-8059 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist]

La Cote d'Or, which has fallen to pieces (now larger and moved around the corner), although perhaps you should try Bistro des Celestins, their new accompanying comfort food bistro.

Pasha Cafe, web site, 3911 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, 703-528-1111 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo (Eve Zibart) | City Paper | openlist]

This place has reopened, following a devastating fire. I have yet to visit the new incarnation but loved the old. Focus on the appetizers. Probably the best Egyptian place around.

Caribbean Grill, 5183 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, 703-241-8947, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Mostly Cuban, also they serve some Jamaican items. The grilled chicken is good, but I'm more inclined to order the beef (Ropa Vieja) or the Pork Fried Pieces (Masas de Puerco). But the key to having a good time here is to neglect the entrees and order as many side dishes as possible. Especially the beans, in their various manifestations. Table space here is limited, but don't let that discourage you. Cheap.

Hard Times Cafe, web site, 1404 King Street, Alexandria, VA, 703-837-0050; 3028 Wilson Blvd., Clarendon, Arlington, VA, 703-528-2233; 1117 Nelson Street, Rockville, MD, 301-294-9720; 394 Elden Street, Herndon, VA, 703-318-8941; and others; usually open. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Chili up to five different ways, Texas and Cincinnati style, tasty and cheap. That being said, the tastes are blander than they used to be. Not up to the quality level in southern Ohio, but then again what is? Purists will never be happy here.

Malibu Grill, web site, 5715 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA, near Rt.7/Baileys Crossroads, 703-379-0587 (a second location at 4516 Fair Knoll Drive, Fairfax, VA, 703-222-5555) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | food-plan | Yelp | Gayot]

An attempt to recreate a Brazilian churrasqueria in Washington. You pay one price, and they bring various grilled meats to your table until you plead for mercy. They have feijoada as well, as part of the buffet. Ultimately the meats bore me, once the novelty of the idea wears off. The originals in Brazil are among the world's best restaurants, and the grilled meats here simply can't compare. Nonetheless this deserves a place in the repertoire, and those that have never gone should go. Now I go and just eat the feijoada, making sure to pile on the oranges and collard greens and farinha from the salad buffet, that is the key to eating well here. Lunch is a real bargain, the whole treatment for about seven dollars.

Taqueria Poblano, web site, 2400-B Mount Vernon Avenue, Alexandria, VA, 703-548-8226, closed Tuesdays. Plus a branch at 2503A N. Harrison Street, Arlington, VA, 703-237-8250, right off of Rt. 29 by the Harris Teeter, this branch open every day but closed 3-5 weekdays. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp]

Taquerias have some of the best Mexican food in Houston, parts of L.A., or the southwestern side of Chicago. This place was quite good when it opened but now it is in decline. It is too commercial and the branch is content to serve reheated, not totally freshly cooked food. It is not moving in a promising direction.

Paladium, 5171 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, 703-241-8701, where the larger Luzmila’s (and formerly Copa) used to be (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Citysearch]

NOW CLOSED. Good peanut soup when they have it, it has half a foot in the Argentinean and Peruvian camps as well. Not a top performer in any single area, but useful to have around.

Casa Blanca Bakery & Cafe, 5037 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, in the CVS shopping plaza east of Bailey’s Crossroads, 703-280-1904 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Mostly a bakery but they have many Bolivian snacks. Eli Lehrer likes this place, I have yet to go.

Don Arturo's Restaurant, 2716 N. Washington Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-276-1050 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Citysearch | Yelp]

One of the ultimate mom n' pops. Everything I have had here is excellent. At first you will think the restaurant is empty but then you will observe many plates of food being brought to the back room. That being said, you will never really know what is going on. I am fond of the silpancho here, (chilies and tomatoes and onion piled on meat, on top of a bed of potatoes), I like that so much I never get the chance to work through their menu. Put lots of the spicy green sauce on top.

Cecilia's, 2619 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-685-0790, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Yelp]

The main Bolivian place in the area, and a center for Bolivian social life. Excellent food, I really like the Pork Fricasee. The menu is not purely Bolivian (Mexican specialties are offered), but you should probably order Bolivian, even though everything looks good. Music and dancing at night on weekends.

The key to Andean restaurants in the U.S. is to avoid ordering a plain piece of meat; the quality of the meat will not be bad, but it will not be high enough to justify your choice. Look instead for sauces, stews, soups, and concoctions. Or a piece of meat with lots piled on top of it, especially chiles and green sauce.

Red Hot & Blue, web site, 1600 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA, 703-276-7427, several other branches including one near GMU, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

Many people hate this restaurant. Given the recent proliferation of barbecue in this area, there is no longer any reason to go. It defines generic, chain barbecue, and perhaps that is worth knowing, if only to see the contrast with the real thing.

Tutto Bene, Ballston, web site, 501 N. Randolph Street, Arlington, VA, 703-522-1005, just off Glebe Road, across from the Harris Teeter (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Yelp | openlist | Citysearch]

Bolivian food on weekends, certainly good but not my first choice for Bolivian (menu here). I actually prefer the Italian dishes here, it is an Italian restaurant most of the time, very tasty. Tastes like the Italian food you get in South America, which is usually excellent, perhaps because it is especially rich. The ravioli are my favorite.

Cafe Tirolo, 4001 N. Fairfax Drive, Arlington, VA, behind Tara Thai, closed weekends, 703-528-7809 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

It used to be run by Austrians, now it has been sold to Koreans. The spaghetti has more garlic, and the place is not what it once was. A real loss.

Café Asia (web site), 1550 Wilson Boulevard, Rosslyn, Arlington, VA, 703-741-0870 (also 1720 Eye Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-659-2696) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Citysearch | Gayot]

Now the place to go in Rosslyn. Surprisingly good, and quite cheap. Tasty and spicy Asian food of all varieties, most valuable to me here are the Indonesian dishes, which are very good and hard to find elsewhere in this area. You might think that a Pan-Asian place won’t do most things well, but this place in fact does many dishes reasonably well. Looks like a big cafeteria but the setting is nonetheless somehow attractive, and this has become a place to be seen, at least by Northern Virginia standards.

Arax Cafe, also known as Arax Coffee, Arax Coffee House and Ice Cream Parlor, Washington Blvd., in Westover, Arlington, VA, across from the Hardware store. 5852 N Washington Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-532-3320 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

Dining God Papan Devnani recommends this one. Most of the Armenian dishes are specials of the day.

Pike Pizza, 4111 Columbia Pike, at the intersection of Columbia Pike and George Mason Drive, Arlington, VA, 703-521-3010 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | Citysearch]

First-rate Bolivian. They do not, however, have pizza, despite the name. The best Bolivian sausage around, too. Amazing atmosphere.

A Taste of Morocco, 3211 N. Washington Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-527-7468 Opens for dinner at 5 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

Primarily à la carte, very tasty, authentic, and very reasonably priced. The crust on the Bistillah (a pie of chicken, almonds, raisins, cinnamon and sugar) is properly thin. At a Moroccan place always get the Bistillah. Everything is good, but it is the Bistillah, and the Bistillah alone, that elevate this place to my favorites list. In case you don’t know, imagine a yummy pie full of chicken, topped with cinnamon and sugar and totally sinful. It isn’t even a dessert. UPDATE: They are now open for lunch again.

Pho 75, 3103 Graham Road, Suite B, Falls Church, VA, 703-204-1490, go early to avoid the line (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

Other locations:

• 1721 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-525-7355
  
• 382 Elden Street, Herndon, VA, 703-471-4145
  
• 771 Hungerford Drive, Rockville, MD, 301-309-8873
  
• 1510 University Blvd. East, Hyattsville, MD, 301-434-7844
  

Do not fear tripe and the other nasty bits. Learn to eat for crunch and texture.

Hunan Number One, 3033 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-528-1177, in Clarendon, open to 1:30 a.m. every night [Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

A fraction of this place is authentic Cantonese, the other part is trying to appeal to boring American diners. Sooner or later the place will have to choose. The salt baked chicken is excellent and you won’t otherwise find that dish around. A reader recommends the clams in black bean sauce, beware the dim sum.