Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

Lahori Kabob, 2816 Graham Rd., Falls Church, VA, 703-573-0112 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Yelp]

This Pakistani place doubles as a hookah joint. The one time I went the service was very weak and the atmosphere was unappealing, to say the least. It looked like a dump (in fact it was a dump) without having the charm of a good mom n’ pop. That said, the chicken karahi was excellent – very authentic – and the other dishes I sampled were at least good or maybe better than good. I’ll give it a qualified recommendation for the discerning, and in the meantime I’ll predict they either get their act together or it will collapse completely. I’d like them to succeed, but they’re not on a sustainable path.

Kebericho Deli Market, 3811-c South George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-578-6464 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

It’s hard to keep track of all the burgeoning Ethiopian places in this mini-mall, but since they are all excellent maybe you don’t need to. This place, which is next to the fabled Abay Market, serves six or so meat-based dishes, no real vegetables. Don’t expect Shiro here. The meats are above average and the atmosphere is excellent.

The time I went it had the single most beautiful waitress of any restaurant on this list, so you tell me whether or not it is worth going. I say yes.

It is Little Seoul, mostly in Annandale, spilling over into West Alexandria. The number of innovative Korean restaurants continues to increase and they are usually crowded. I love the new place devoted to the many forms of Korean porridge. Seoul Gool Dae Gee Honey Pig on Columbia Pike has the best decor (and the pork neck) around. TodamSoonDooBoo (also known as Tofu House, next to the Giant, straddling 236 and Columbia Pike) has dumpling soup and tofu. The two branches of Shilla Bakery and Le Matin de Paris give Virginia a cafe scene. Much of my eating out is now Korean or in the new Vietnamese places in the Western Saigon interior branch of the Eden Center; either that or Ray's Hell-Burger, Hong Kong Palace, Thai X-ing, or the now-reopened Nava Thai, right next door to the shuttered old branch.

Annandale used to be a nice appendage to the peak places to eat. Now it's the epicenter, the main culinary show, and also the coolest place to hang out.

Addendum: Here is a good article, which mentions Korean food as the next trend to come. Let's hope not.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution

Hai Duong Restaurant, 6795 Wilson Blvd., #7-9, Falls Church, VA, Eden Center, 703-538-5289 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Yelp]

Again, on the inside corridor in Eden Center near Wilson Boulevard. This place is just first-rate. My favorite dish is the #31, Sizzling Fish Filet in Northern Style; you need to put all the pieces together on top of the chip for it to make sense. #10, Beef Underdone with Lime, is the best around and you should order this special dish if you don’t already know it. The soups are very good as are the crushed rice dishes. Excellent atmosphere: Go, go, go.

Banh Cuon Saigon, web site, 6795 Wilson Blvd., #54, Falls Church, VA, 703-534-4482, open 9 am to 8 pm, Eden Center (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

This small eatery is inside what has rapidly become the best corridor of Eden Center, namely the new inside corridor that is quite close to Wilson Blvd. itself. The shrimp soup, given as one of the specialties, is first-rate here.

Cafe Metro: Asian Fusion and Wine Bar, 6795 Wilson Blvd., Eden Center, Falls Church, VA, 703-942-8969, in the mall it is very close to Wilson Boulevard, west end of the Eden Center mall, by the smaller entrance from the main road near Viet Bistro, the sign for the restaurant is hard to spot. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper]

I had one meal here and I was blown away. The lemon grass tofu and the tamarind soft shell crab (be sure to dip it in the pepper sauce) were among the best dishes I’ve had in Eden Center, ever. The noodles and dumplings were above average, though I would not say spectacular. It is mostly Vietnamese with some Thai influence and a few Korean dishes on the menu. It tries to be a “nice” restaurant in a weird way and the music is too loud. Right now nobody else is going. Their menu is going to expand soon and I predict further evolution for this place.

Present Restaurant, 6678 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church, VA, 571-233-5001 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

This is in the mall with J.V.'s Restaurant (described by the Washington Post as "One of the last Virginia honky-tonks") and Merchants’ Tire, west of Seven Corners/Eden Center. This used to be the Beewon.

The restaurant is finer in décor than most Vietnamese places and you could even take a business client here. The menu has vague, flowery descriptions of the dishes, so if you know real Vietnamese food you may at first be a bit confused. Don’t be.

Right now this is one of the best Vietnamese restaurants around. The dishes are done in very classic style, with French influence. The menu is pretty short so they may not have your favorite Vietnamese dish. And I think the place can still get better. Recommended.

El Tutumaso, 3018 Annandale Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-531-1081

A very authentic Bolivian restaurant with a more extensive menu than most. Excellent soups and consistent all around, although I never like the dishes that use hot dog slices. One of the two or three best Bolivian places for people watching and definitely worth a visit.

"Bolivian cuisine" on wikipedia

La Caraqueña, web site, 300 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-533-0076, where Café Rose used to be in Falls Church City (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

They serve Venezuelan, Bolivian, and Chilean dishes; the proprietors are Bolivians who lived for quite a while in Venezuela. Definitely above average. I loved the peanut soup (Sopa de Mani). Chilean sandwiches are hard to mimic in this country, so I didn’t order one, but I saw two go past and they looked delicious. Even their Bolivian dishes are not exactly the standard. An original place, worth having in the repertoire and a nice homey atmosphere.

Sea Side Crab House, 6799 Wilson Blvd., #5, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-CRAB (2722) (where Saigon Garden used to be) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Don Rockwell]

An excellent seafood house in Eden Center. The soft shell crab is some of the best around. The crawfish are served Cajun style, although not as spicy as you would get in southwest Louisiana. It’s small and not a great place to sit and chat inside, but absolutely worth having in the repertoire. Outdoor seating is available. Right now it is my go-to choice for crabs. Make sure you use lots of the lime, salt and pepper sauce they give you.

Halalco Supermarket, web site, 155 Hillwood Avenue, Falls Church, VA, 703-532-3202 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Zabihah]

Located inside a Pakistani supermarket, this place is so authentic it closed completely for the month of Ramadan. It’s probably the most authentic Pakistani place around, truly spicy, a bit oily, they serve organs too. Not my #1 Pakistani place but I will go a third time and maybe yet again. It is recommended for those who want to go the nth degree, not for those who seek mainstream ethnic food. It is best to go during peak hours when the buffet is most fresh. There is lots of Islamic material in the supermarket, it is a very religious place, the people are very friendly.

Meaza, 5700 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-820-2870, I’m not sure about the number on Rt. 7, it is what their card says but some people tell me it is wrong. [This place was formerly at 5440 Columbia Pike: previous TCEDG entry]. In any case it is on Columbia Pike just east of Route 7 by Circuit City (which address is 5710 Columbia Pike). (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [chowhound | Yelp]

Excellent, excellent Ethiopian, maybe as good as the DC dumps. But it’s a nice restaurant too. The fish tibs you can’t get in other places. First-rate kitfo. Wide variety. A clear #1 Ethiopian for Virginia and yes it is pressing on the DC places too. Attached to a coffee shop, plus they have Ethiopian music on some nights. Definitely recommended, although perhaps I would prefer if the dining room had more light.

Kim Ngan, web site, 6755 Wilson Blvd., #24, Falls Church, VA, Eden Center, inside the row of stores to the right of the mall, a small place, 703-538-2474, closed Wednesdays. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

Excellent pho but more notably has some of the area’s best “crushed rice” dishes. They have numerous good noodle and small dishes and pork chop dishes here, a fun restaurant, good for when you’re not in the mood for the Eden Center standbys.

Vietnam Imports, 922 West Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, Rt. 7, right next to Panjshir, 703-867-9635, ask for Lilian (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Yelp]

Yes they cook Indonesian food, home cooking, the real thing, but only Saturdays from 10 or so until not very late. And not every Saturday at that. The noodles are wonderful, beware the cold satay. Worth going if this is what you crave. The “restaurant” is simply a few tables in the back of the ethnic grocery, probably without proper license, etc. Recommended, but please don’t expect this to be a real restaurant. For some dedicated readers it will satisfy the Indonesian craving.

Bolivian Bakery, 6184 Arlington Boulevard, Falls Church, VA, Willston Shopping Plaza, right next to Mark’s Duck House, 703-531-0777 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [openlist]

The “subtitle” of this restaurant is “Palacio del Silpancho”. How can you hate a place like that? This is not the very best silpancho but it is at least at the area average and sometimes above it. Maybe it is too salty in parts. But this is a very sympathetic restaurant and they have lots of fruit drinks too. Worth an occasional visit.

Majestic Rosa Nautica, 2922 Annandale Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-538-8888, 703-538-8885 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

The dining hall is huge, indeed cavernous and the waitresses are skimpily clad. Drunk Peruvians watch soccer on huge screens. I had to wait a long time before being served. The fish in my pescado saltado was falling apart. They have music at night, and on a few web sites are listed as providing “adult entertainment.” (Not when I was there.) Dance lessons too.

Are these auspicious signs or not? Well, the kitchen does “get” the fundamental essence of Peruvian seafood and they do serve it fresh. I’ll go back, but when I’m in a patient mood. So far I give this one a thumbs up, but I can’t imagine how they can afford to pay for so much space.

Ibex Restaurant, 3813 E & F South George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, no phone given. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

A vibrant Ethiopian place in my favorite ethnic mini-mall (Skyline). The quality is uneven but nothing is bad and the very best dishes are very good indeed. Get the firfir and the qitqit. Get any dish that is laden with lots of injera (bread) and it will be first-rate. Not everything hits the spot here but I am definitely keeping the place in my repertoire.

Chinese-Korean (Kyung Ju Restaurant? - sorry the business card is in Kangul only!), 2847 Gallows Road, at Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, in the strip mall with the H Mart, 703-645-8787 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

This place gives a good overview of Chinese-Korean food, a bit gooey, a bit sweet, and with liberal use of ketchup. I don’t like the genre, but I don’t want to put you off trying it. The staff is friendly and charming, plus they have some regular Korean dishes as well. For me it is a dominated asset, but if you never went it would be a shame.

Annandale Cafe, 133 E. Annandale Road, Falls Church, VA, between Hillwood Ave. and S Washington St, though to me it looks like it is on Hillwood, 703-237-7275 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)
[MenuPages]

I love this place, which right now is the best Bolivian food around, despite being a bit on the dark and dingy side. I can’t imagine how they handle crowds and I suppose they don’t. The Saturday peanut soup is the best around, lots of pasta in it. The meats are very fresh. The plates are large. The authenticity level is high. They also pretend to have a connection to Argentinian food but it really is mostly Bolivian. Right now this place is a clear first choice in its category.

Hong Kong Palace (formerly Saigon Palace), web site, 6387 Leesburg Pike, Seven Corners Center, Falls Church, VA, 703-532-0940, Sun - Thur: 11 am - 10 pm, Fri & Sat: 11 am - 11 pm (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Yelp]

This is probably the best Chinese place around and it just keeps on getting better. Mostly it is Sichuan and yes do ask for the special Chinese menu if they don't give it to you right away. Get the lamb with cumin, the beef with bamboo shoots, the flounder in pepper sauce in hot pot, the ma po tofu, the potatoes with green pepper, the tiger pepper, the Dan Dan noodles, the dried beef appetizer, and the chengdu dumplings appetizer, the spicy version in black vinegar. The menu has many other treasures as well. The specials are usually very good.

Fairouz Mediterranean Café, web site, 3815-A S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-845-7929 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

A mix of Tunisian and Lebanese dishes, I have yet to go. They have okra on the menu, foul, chopped liver, stuffed quail, and lots of kabob platters.

Fu Mei, in the Great Wall Chinese grocery store (大中华) on Gallows, between 29 and 50 and right by Five Guys and Peking Village, 2982 Gallows Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-208-3388 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

Fully authentic Chinese comfort food, the meats are quite good, the noodles too, the chow fun (chow foon), all for Chinese tastes; the food lies in the direction of oily Cantonese, not sea cucumber. Definitely recommended, and an A+ for atmosphere. They have only a few tables, all the more reason to go.

Abay Market, 3811-A S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-998-5322 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Now this is an interesting place. They have only three dishes: raw beef, and I do mean slabs (tere sega), not chopped kitfo, lamb soup, and slightly cooked kitfo (mostly raw). That’s it. All come with bread, sauce, and spices. The lamb is pretty fatty, the soup is tasty.

No doubt this is the best raw beef emporium for miles and miles around. It will disappoint those who seek side orders, vegetables, or indeed anything else. A+ for atmosphere. Ask for their assistance in eating the food.

Recommended, but you’d better know what you are looking for.

Update March 25, 2009: Currently the best Ethiopian place in my area. The menu has moved from having three items -- raw beef only, plus fatty lamb soup -- to some vegetables and cooked items as well.

Also see "Cuisine of Ethiopia" on Wikipedia

Fairfax Inn, 2946 Sleepy Hollow Road, Falls Church, VA, just off Seven Corners, located in a Medical Arts Building, 703-532-0616 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Mostly they serve burgers and the like. You have to ask for the Filipino menu at the counter. I have yet to go, the recommendation is from Papan Devnani, who tells me the dishes are named in Tagalog, a good sign. They close at 7 pm evenings, 3 pm on Sundays, and also serve Filipino breakfast.

Tay Do Restaurant, web site, 6793-C Wilson Blvd., Falls Church, VA, the old spot held by Dragon Star in Eden Center, 703-536-5728

This place keeps closing and then opening again. Each time it gets smaller and it takes on a new relationship with sappy evening music. At times it has been excellent and I've never know it to be bad. I'm not sure what to say. If you're already in the Eden Center, it's hard to try a place that can't keep its act together. But there's plenty of upside with the organ meats, the clay pots, the congees, and other dishes, including Vietnamese pancakes. That is if the menu stays the same. Who knows?

Bamian, web site, 5634 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-820-7880 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | MenuPages | Suburban Tasteland | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper]

One of the best Afghan places around, the kabobs are juicy and succulent. That being said, I have some complaints. The air conditioning is overdone. The dining room is huge and understaffed. I can’t imagine trying to eat here at 8 p.m. on a Saturday evening. The appetizers all have strong minty tastes. This is better than going the sweet route, but a certain sameness creeps in. With some modest changes, this place could be very very good. Right now it hovers between good and very good.

Chaba Thai Restaurant, web site, 2972 Gallows Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-205-2430

Right near the Lee Highway Multiplex and thus it has a convenient location for many moviegoers. But it is not above average. The watercress salad is one good dish to get, but the net value added of this place is probably locational only.

Nhu Lan, web site, 6763 Wilson Blvd., # 14, Falls Church, VA, on the interior of Eden Center, a very small place, 703-532-9009 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

Vietnamese subs, banh mi they are called. Some involve mayonnaise, carrots, pickled carrots, radishes, and fresh cilantro. Not my cup of tea -- especially the mayo -- but some swear by it. If you are like me, perhaps try the pork meatballs.

Mai Restaurant, 6763 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church, VA, Eden Center, # 9 inside the mall, 703-237-2020, Tgfriday14@yahoo.com (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Small Picture]

They don’t have crabs “out of season,” so call ahead. You might call this place Vietnamese. They also do good things with packaged crab meat.

Update September 2006: The best crab place in the immediate area. Fresh. The proprietor likes to talk. Only crabs. Crabs, with ginger and scallions, tamarind sauce, plain, or salt and pepper. I like salt and pepper best. Recommended.

Karaoke Idol, 7151 Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, 703-533-0024 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press]

The name alone makes this one worth a try, but frankly I am terrified. Recommended by a reader is the lumpia, Pancit, the tocino (sweetend cured meat), and longaniza. I've now gone, and thought it was "good for a Filipino place," but stil I can't fall in love with the cuisine, at least not in its restaurant versions.

Sarita's, 2794 Graham Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-533-9448 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | Yelp]

Authentic, to say the least. Plus you can find Sarita’s II in the Culmore Shopping Center on Rt. 7, west of Bailey’s Crossroads: 6013 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-820-2700 [Yelp]

A good rule of thumb is the following: just about every El Salvadorean place in the area is worthwhile if you order well. Which means getting the pupusas. In Sarita’s II they dress the waitresses to maximize the number of leering male customers, so beware if you go.

El Zunzal, 917 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-532-9372, also 5900 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-379-5100 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | Yelp]

A good place for El Salvadorean food, and more accessible to non-Salvadoreans than most, without selling out on the quality side. There is no doubt what you should order here: two mixed pupusas, one corn tamale, and perhaps a side order of beans. That makes for a great five dollar meal. Some of the other menu items are good here as well, but I am never really tempted to deviate from the above.

Pho Cyclo, 8102 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church, VA, 703-573-2210, really on Gallows Road next to the 24-hour CVS (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

Not just Pho. Excellent lemon grass chicken.

Saigon House, 7235 Arlington Blvd., #2, Loehmann’s Plaza, Falls Church, VA, 703-560-8180 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Yet another very good Vietnamese place. Best for their big seafood combo dinners, for up to ten people, even including some jellyfish but the non-squeamish will like it too. When you go inside, you will be surprised how large this place is.

Cho Cu Saigon, 6763-6D Wilson Blvd., Falls Church, VA, 703-538-2168, inside Eden Center - use the entrance under the clock tower, next to the grocery store (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | Yelp]

Get the roast pork there. You might call this Cantonese but it is a Vietnamese vision of Cantonese food. Duck and seafood as well, recommended.

Update September, 2006: An unknown and much underrated Cantonese restaurant. Good congee. Also get the salted and baked chicken. Fully authentic, try the noodles with ginger and scallion, I think this place is quite good and I haven’t even yet discovered their best dishes.

Update March 9, 2006: Today I had a great meal at the Cantonese place inside Eden Center... the casserole with minced chicken and salted fish was superb.

Huong Viet, 6785 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church, VA, 703-538-7110, in the Eden Center (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Opens at 10 a.m. and is full by noon in the Eden Center. Get the picture? All the Vietnamese staples, definitely recommended.

Song Hau, 6763 #6A Wilson Boulevard, Falls Church, VA, this is an inside resturant at Eden Center and not visible from the parking lot, 703-241-1880 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper]

I’ve yet to try it but it must be excellent to survive in this mall.

Four Sisters, Huong Que, web site, 8190 Strawberry Lane, Suite 1 Fairfax, VA, 703-539-8566, previously in Eden Center (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | The Hill | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A bit fancier than Viet Royale, this was once the best or at least the best known of the Vietnamese places. I like the caramel fish, the Vietnamese pancake, anything with lemon grass, the soups, anything that doesn’t sound Chinese. Fancier decor and less crowded than most other Vietnamese places. But it's gone increasingly mainstream and I no longer see reason to go here. It's still good, but the most specialized places in Eden Center are serving up more interesting meals. It moved in late 2008 to Fairfax.

The same folks own Song Que, a few doors away. [Hobnob Blog | Washingtonian]

The other places in Eden Center are great. If you go on a Saturday, you must arrive before noon to get a parking spot in this mall. All the restaurants are open by 11, so this is not a problem.

Viet Royale, 6795 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church, VA, 703-533-8388, in Eden Center, Arlington, off Wilson Boulevard, near Rt. 50 and Rt. 7. This center is the center of Vietnamese and Asian life in northern Virginia. Excellent stores as well. I suspect no one goes to the Eden Center just once. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Avoid anything that sounds like Chinese food, the standard advice in a Vietnamese restaurant. The lobster is excellent, for one thing. On weekdays, order the Bo 7 Mon - Seven Courses of Beef. Not as intimidating as it sounds. In any case, this restaurant is much better than the overrated Queen Bee. Fish in caramel sauce is one idea. Vietnamese pancake. Sweet and sour soup. You get the idea.

Temel, web site, 3232 Old Pickett Road, Fairfax, VA, 703-352-5477 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Washington Diplomat | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | WAMU | openlist | Yelp]

Mainly Turkish, but has some Greek and Israeli dishes as well, pizza also. Very tasty, fancier than you expect it to be, not as cheap as most other ethnic places. The worst thing is that the service is terminally slow, and without apology. Even at lunch a 45 minute wait to be served is not unusual. Draws a very mainstream crowd and doesn’t have much of an ethnic feel, despite the menu.

Eden Center, web site, directions, use this address for locating on online maps: 6795 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church, VA.

Eden Center is on Wilson Boulevard, in Seven Corners, near Rt. 50 and Rt. 7.

To see the restaurants at Eden Center listed in this Guide, click the Eden Center category.

This center is the center of Vietnamese and Asian life in northern Virginia. Excellent stores as well. I suspect no one goes to the Eden Center just once. Not really a strip mall. It is a mall for Vietnamese and Asian businesses, including many restaurants and food stores. If you go on a Saturday, you must arrive before noon to get a parking spot in this mall. All the restaurants are open by 11, so this is not a problem.

Falls Church has held on to the reputation it established in the 1990s for Asian and especially Vietnamese food. Indeed, the Eden Center on Wilson Boulevard -- the bustling economic reflection of a county where one in every four residents is now foreign-born -- attracts Asian visitors from the entire East Coast. I used to go to this huge mall whenever I wanted; now I worry about whether I can find a parking space.

"Ethnic Goes Exurban: Washington's Sprawl, As Told Through Its Migrating Restaurants," by Tyler Cowen, The Washington Post, September 3, 2006

Restaurants, Food Shops, Grocery Stores

• See the Eden Center category
• Eden Supermarket, 703-532-4950

More

• Eden Center and Seven Corners - from Wikipedia
• "Vietnamese Travel Agent Helps Washington-Area Compatriots with Family Reunification," by Oksana Dragan, VOA, May 1, 2005
• "Fare of the Country: Vietnamese Cuisine, Virginia Settings," by Olwen Woodier, The New York Times, January 27, 1991

Bangkok Blues, web site, 926 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-534-0095 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Gayot]

The former home of a Laotian place, same patrons. Good Thai food, but not at the very top, compared to the competition. I love the blues videos they show, but at the same time it comes off as a bit of affectation too. There is live music as well.

Neisha, web site (Flash), 6037 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-933-3788, in the Culmore Center, on Rt. 7, near Bailey’s Crossroads (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Other locations:
7924 Tysons Corner Center, McLean, VA, 703-883-3588
4445 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-966-7088

Mom and pop Thai, with yuppie pretensions at the fringes. Tasty, cheap, but for me somehow not satisfying. The flavors are a little too sweet for my taste. Has started drawing some customers away from Duangrat’s.

Pilin, web site, 116 West Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-5850, on Rt. 7, a tiny bit west of Rt. 29 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

No surprises, but it delivers. Better than Tara Thai on Maple Avenue in Vienna. In any Thai place I recommend the Mee Grob.

There is a separate branch of this restaurant in the mall on Rt. 7 where Tower Records is located: 8385 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA, 703-556-9191 [openlist | Yelp] The Leesburg Pike branch is more of a lunch place, and not as good as Pilin, but it is certainly good enough to go to and enjoy. Cheaper and quicker as well. The place also has some Vietnamese specialties, which are good as well.

Between 1960 and 2006, the District's population dropped from close to 800,000 to just 550,000, about 20 percent of whom live below the poverty line. High taxes, bad schools and expensive housing impelled people to leave for the suburbs, taking their businesses with them. Immigrants also began following the new opportunities -- settling outside the city. During the same period, Tysons Corner went from a cow patch to a bunch of auto dealerships to a first-tier shopping and business center. Small wonder that would-be restaurateurs such as Nat Kittayapifon, the manager at Pilin, chose Tysons over the District. "We were the first Thai restaurant in Fairfax County 17 years ago," he remembers. "Now I can count 10 on my fingers with no problem."

"Ethnic Goes Exurban: Washington's Sprawl, As Told Through Its Migrating Restaurants," by Tyler Cowen, The Washington Post, September 3, 2006

Duangrat's, web site, 5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, near Bailey's Crossroads, 703-820-5775, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Gourmet Thai at reasonable prices. The ruling Thai restaurant in this area. There is another branch of the same restaurant, with a slightly different menu, right next door, called Rabieng's. Has more modern decor than Duangrat's, but fewer offerings, although I am told you can still order off the Duangrat's menu. It used to be that every dish here was great, then for a while it turned spottier. Now it has been reinvigorated. It remains not fully consistent but the best dishes are better than ever and the menu is more innovative than ever before. The weekend “Thai tapas” are especially fun. Go, and go often.

Flavors Soul Food, web site, 3420 Carlyn Hill Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-379-4411 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Gayot]

I am fond of this place. The sides are the best. I get the trout, candied yams, and mashed potatoes. More soul food than barbecue, but recommended, and first-rate atmosphere.

Chicken House and Family Kitchen, 6007 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-379-1255, in the Culmore Shopping Center (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

The most stripped down chicken place you can imagine, barely deserves to be called a restaurant. Not above average, but not below average either. The immediate area has stiff competition, but occasionally I end up here.

Peruvian Chicken and Steak, 6198 Arlington Boulevard, Falls Church, VA, 703-237-7704, in Willston shopping center strip mall (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | Washingtonian | City Paper | Yelp]

Yet another chicken place, yet another good chicken place. They have interesting fruit juices, too.

La Granja de Oro, 2920 Annandale Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-534-5511 / 5519 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

The place to go for Peruvian mixed grill, including beef heart, tripe, calf liver, etc. The other items are adequate, though not the very best around. Not on a major strip, so most people don't know about it. Not so far from either Rt. 7 or 236. Live music on some evenings. I’ve heard there is a good branch in Washington, also (1801 Adams Mill Road, Washington, DC, 202-232-8888 [WaPo | City Paper | Yelp])

By the way, don't drink Inka Kola, no matter how many locals you see ordering it. It's like boiled, sweetened, liquefied bubble gum.

The Chicken Place, 5519 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-931-3090, near Bailey’s Crossroads, where the old Edy’s used to be. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

They have one of the tastiest chickens, a place to go if you are tired of the large crowds at Edy’s, you can eat here with no sacrifice in quality, plus the chicken comes more quickly.

- - -

Never been to these other restaurants named "The Chicken Place": 2418 University Blvd. West, Wheaton, MD, 301-946-1212 [Washingtonian | Gayot]

In Gaithersburg, La Flor de la Canela used to be called "The Chicken Place": 117 N. Frederick Avenue, Gaithersburg, MD, 301-519-9100 [WaPo]

Edy's Chicken and Steak, 5240 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-820-5509, Las Brasas, Leesburg Pike, Bailey's Crossroads, on the north side of Route 7, just east of Chesapeake Plaza, where the old Borders used to be (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

After moving to fancy new digs, at first the quality declined but now it has recovered. That being said, the waits for chicken are now sometimes interminable, once it took a solid 35 minutes. One is reminded of Yogi Berra’s old adage: “Nobody goes there anymore, it’s too crowded.” Still, I love this place. And an A plus for atmosphere and good general fun. Oh, get the chicken, not the steak. For yucca fries, I think the best is Brasa Roja, in Fairfax, or the place in Willston Plaza (Peruvian Chicken and Steak), on Rt. 50; the yucca here is actually substandard.

Machu Picchu, 5912 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-379-7777, near Bailey Crossroads, in the same shopping center as Maxim’s, the Chinese place previously known as Fortune. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | openlist | Gayot]

I went once and had a good experience with grilled salmon and the Peruvian spicy green sauce. Plus they have some good stuffed avocado appetizers. Rio Bravo failed in this locale in the past, the premises are simply too big to support an ethnic restaurant, here’s to hoping that I am wrong.

El Majahual Chim-Pun Callao Restaurant, 3815-B S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-845-9501. Off Rt. 7, just east of Skyline Mall, or take the confusing Seminary Road from Alexandria. Open any time you would care to go. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

This restaurant's name has something to do with soccer, it seems. Many Peruvian wonders here. Papa Huancaina makes for a nice appetizer - potatoes covered with a spicy cheese sauce. The Ceviche is very good. Among the mains, Seco is lamb stew with beans. Lomo Saltado is the dish I use to gauge any Peruvian restaurant - salty beef, olive oil, tomatoes, and french fries all mixed together. Don't worry, the French Fries are supposed to be soggy. It's best here. The Italian-sounding dishes are less interesting. Same with some of the steaks (see the remarks under "Cecilia's" Bolivian on this point). Go for the dishes that mix ingredients.

The restaurant also serves good El Salvadorean food; I like the Taquito appetizer. Plus the usual E.S. assortments. The mini-mall also deserves a full walk, both front and back sides. This is what Northern Virginia is all about, and what makes living here tolerable. You'll find ethnic groceries for Filipino, Ethiopian, Indian, Afghan, and Vietnamese foods.

Mirage Kabob and Sweets Cafe, 5916 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-845-1600 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Falls Church News-Press | Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist]

In the former home of Samadi Sweets, they have kept the savory desserts. I like this place, it is mostly kabobs but one stew or koresh each day. Good zereshk polo, when they have it.

Rose Restaurant, formerly Café Rose, 300 W. Broad St., Falls Church, 532-1700, not far from Rt. 29.

Attached to a motel, and very much a mom and pop. They're cooking just for you, and will even give you advice about how to eat it. Very good and a classic Virginia experience. Get the Gourmet Sabzi [Ghorma Sabzi, properly], and ask for the specials. Recommended, and they also are open at funny times when no one else is, other than the Koreans that is.

This place is now gone, due to eminent domain. I will keep up the review as a form of protest.

Update March 4, 2007: Open again in Vienna, VA, on Rt.123, it is excellent, both the kabobs and the stews, definitely recommended. Review here.

Taco Baja Grill, 6136 Arlington Blvd., Willston Center, Falls Church, VA, 703-534-5434 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp | Gayot]

Occasionally they reheat bad food so beware. Good atmosphere, though the possibility of leering men cannot be dismissed and indeed is to be expected. Overall it has been eclipsed by the competition.

Bread & Kabob, web site, 3407 Payne Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-845-2900, Bailey's Crossroad, next to Jerusalem Restaurant, north side of Rt. 7, east of Peking Gourmet Inn, usually open. Also a branch in Vienna: 126 W. Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-255-9696 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

My favorite here is the Dizi. Dizi is "traditional Iranian lamb stew with beans, chick-peas, onion, potato, tomato, garlic, dried lime, rolled oat and spices cooked overnight and served in the same pot." One of those meals where the consumer contributes to the production process, using what appear to be instruments of dental torture. The kabobs, while good, do not stand up to the competition elsewhere.

Open Friday and Saturday nights until 5:00 a.m.; they also serve Kalle-Pacheh and Haleem at those times.

Village Kabob, 3013 Annandale Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-536-3002, at Rt. 50 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | City Paper | Yelp]

Looks great, but isn’t. Still too greasy and oily, even after a change in ownership.

Blanca's, 418 S. Washington Street, Falls Church, VA, Rt. 29, 703-538-2466 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | Yelp]

Actually an El Salvadorean restaurant, but they also have excellent Mexican food, the best in the area outside of the old Cielito Lindo in Bladensburg. Get the bean burrito. Don't go when you are in a hurry, however. Any of the non-Mexican Latin places that try to make quasi-Mexican food will beat the pathetic American attempts at Mexican food found in this area.

Crisp & Juicy, multiple outlets [WaPo | 10Best | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Citysearch | Gayot]

• 4540 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, on the corner of Lee Hwy and N. Woodrow Street, 703-243-4222 [Hobnob Blog]
• 913 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-9091 [Falls Church News-Press | Tarting it up]
• 1331-G Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD, 301-251-8833
• 3800 International Drive, Silver Spring, MD, 301-598-3333

Many of my readers like these places, I have yet to go.

Crisp & Juicy, 4540 Lee Highway, Arlington, VA

913 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA

Crisp & Juicy, , half of whole chicken dinner

Crisp & Juicy, , half of whole chicken dinner

Crisp & Juicy, chicken breast sandwich with everything on it

Crisp & Juicy, whole chicken

Crisp & Juicy, black beans and rice, fries, and salad

Beewon (Secret Garden in English), web site, 6678 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church, VA, 703-533-1004 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Korean DC | Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | food-plan | Yelp]

Update September 2008: Closed. Now the Present Restaurant.

One of the area’s first Korean restaurants. I have yet to go. I hear they serve raw fish still wiggling, for their Korean patrons.

Pistone's Italian Inn, web site, right at Seven Corners, 6320 Arlington Blvd, Falls Church, VA, 703-533-1885 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | food-plan | openlist]

Looks like it is still in the 1950s in here. Not a perfect place in every way, but their salad bar is quite good and the rest is certainly acceptable. Some really like it, but I only went once.

Argia’s, web site, 124 N. Washington Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-534-1033 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

It looks artificial, but the food here is surprisingly good, a bit like what you would find in a good New Jersey Italian restaurant. Recommended, one of the best in a poor lot.

Mehak, web site, 7716 Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, 703-573-8076 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Yelp], also a DC location: 817 7th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-408-9292 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Update August 13, 2006: Mehak is closed.

A good Indian restaurant, believe it or not they used to serve Italian food also. Not the area's best, but good enough to enjoy, with a good branch in DC too.

Raaga, web site, 5872 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-998-7000, just east of Duangrat's. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Indian food, from the folks who brought you Connaught's in Fairfax and Infusion in Vienna. Certainly very good, but lacks special dishes if you know the other places on this list.

Haandi, web site, 1222 W. Broad St., Falls Church, VA, 703-533-3501. Also 4904 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 301-718-0121 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

They take no reservations, and some times the place fills up, though not as it used to. I like their wok-cooked specialties and their salmon, but I find some of the portions a bit too small and the spicing a bit too weak. This was once a prime option but now other places are passing it by.

Elevation Burger, web site, 442 South Washington Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-237-4343 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell]

Right now this is the best burger around, especially since Five Guys has gone the chain route. The crowds can be daunting if you go at the wrong time, and the wait can be long. The staff tries and I suspect they will work out the kinks. The line is there for a reason. They have burgers of “Kobe beef” and vegan burgers. The French fries are quite good, though I find them tastier at Five Guys. Super cheap, and definitely recommended..

Five Guys, web site, 4626 King Street, Alexandria, VA, 703-671-1606, many other branches too, including on 107 N. Fayette Street, Alexandria, VA, 6541 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA, and 2960 Gallows Road, Falls Church, VA, right by the Multiplex and the Szechuan place set back in the strip mall. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

See web site for locations in DC, Virginia and Maryland.

Formerly the definitive local hamburger, now it is a huge chain with varying quality. It can still hit the spot, however. Great albeit greasy french fries, makes you realize that most people’s french fries taste like nothing. No spa cuisine here. Not for all tastes, but if you think you might like it, try it. And dirt cheap.

Victor's Grill II, 7634 Lee Highway, Rt. 29, Falls Church, VA, 703-573-4161, where Black-Eyed Pea used to be, near Mehak (another location at 436 South Washington Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-532-8878) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | Yelp]

Bolivian as well, but the closest you will find to real parillada. You get an enormous plate, it is quite good but not for all tastes, be prepared for huge slabs and meat and innards. Recommended. It would almost make my favorites list, except I can’t eat this stuff more than once a year.

2941 Restaurant, web site, 2941 Fairview Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-270-1500 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Economist | Washingtonian | The Hill | wcities | World Bank Family Network | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot] [Chef Jonathan Krinn: CS Monitor | Baltimore Business Journal | DC Chefs 10/1/06]

It was once very excellent, but now it is only in the “good for the suburbs” category. Not cheap. The scallops and the foie gras are among the better entries. But the meals there now feel corporate rather than special. Many will love the view of the artificial lake outside, so go early. They also do Sunday brunch. Now I go only when other people are paying. Not as good as Colvin Run Tavern, for instance, for a special Virginia meal.

Fasiledes, 3821-B S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-931-4141 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [food-plan]

Good, but not the best Ethiopian place in Northern Virginia. In one of the best malls for ethnic food, however, which counts for something. Go if you want to, but don't render a final judgment on Ethiopian food from these places.

Kam Po, 5884 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-578-4017 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper]

They have Chinese dishes and Peruvian dishes, with mutual influence running both ways. Visitors to Lima will be familiar with the concept, the place is run by Chinese Peruvians. An interesting novelty, and reasonably good, but it doesn’t beat trying either cuisine pure up.

John Chia, the owner of Kam Po, says he chose Leesburg Pike near Baileys Crossroads for his Chinese-Peruvian eatery because it is convenient for the region's estimated 75,000 Peruvian transplants as well as other Latinos. "Old ethnic neighborhoods, all your restaurants were walking distance," he says. "Now 99 percent of my customers come in cars." (Kam Po is what in Lima would be called a chifa , run by Chinese immigrants to Peru who moved to the D.C. suburbs, bringing their own brand of fusion food with them.)

Pollo Campero, 5852 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA (just west of the Best Buy at Bailey’s Crossroads). (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Gayot]

Also 1375 Kenyon St. NW, Washington, DC; 496 Elden Street, Herndon, VA, 703-904-7500; 1355 East University Boulevard, Adelphi, MD, 301-408-0555; 11420 Georgia Avenue, Silver Spring, MD, 301-942-6868; and 701 Russell Avenue, Lake Forest Mall, Gaithersburg, MD.

An international chain (web site).

Not Peruvian chicken, just plain fried chicken. A Latin version of KFC but far superior. The French fries and sides are excellent. By 11:00 am on weekends the crowds have arrived, sometimes parking is a real pain. Excellent for people-watching, recommended if you can stand the idea of eating fried chicken.

The Prince of Egypt, 3821-D South. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-931-8200 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

The sort of place a woman would never feel comfortable walking into alone. Dark and smoky, full of men sitting around tables, with a vaguely pornographic or sinister feel to the whole thing. I would like to go, but right now I can’t take the smoke. Maybe when it is empty.

Celebrity Delly, 7263 Arlington Blvd., Loehmann’s Plaza, Rt. 50, Falls Church, VA, 703-573-9002 (also 7913 Tuckerman Lane, Potomac, MD, 301-299-1740) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Not as good as Chutzpah, but above average for this area

Myanmar Restaurant, 7810-C Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, 703-289-0013 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Excellent if you order well. The place is hard to spot from the road, in Merrifield Park Plaza, I think, just west of the big cemeteries on Lee Highway, a bit east of Gallows. Get the Ginger Salad, and more generally don’t be afraid to go spicy. .

My Bakery & Café, web site, 3508 Courtland Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-933-7333, off Columbia Pike, after Blair Road, and right before Full Kee (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Recommended for Bolivian pastries and breads. One Bolivian reader recommends the “api, a purplish corn-based drink, served hot” with cinnamon, I may stick with jellyfish. The chicharron and mote are recommended as well.

Other locations: 9229 Sudley Road, Manassas, VA 703-361-8220, and 3839 Mt. Vernon Avenue, Alexandria, VA 703-842-7554

Luzmila's Cuisine, 809 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-237-0047 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Falls Church News Press | City Paper | Yelp | Citysearch]

Mom and pop Bolivian place, not up to Don Arturo’s or the nearby Victor’s, but good enough to enjoy and very friendly and fun. Pablo Ayala tells me that their saltenas are very good.

Llajtaymanta, 7236 Arlington Blvd. (Rte 50), Falls Church, VA, in the Graham Center (at Graham), next to where Cha Gio used to be, 703-204-0593 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian]

One of the most authentic Bolivian places around. The menu is in Spanish only. The waitresses don’t speak any English. The soups and meats are very good. I’ve only been once, but I will add this to my repertoire. Great atmosphere too.

Victor’s Grill, 436 S. Washington St, Falls Church, VA, 703 532 8878 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | Yelp]

I’ve now been here three times, and great every time. One of the best Bolivian places around, and probably the largest portions of any place listed in this guide.

Bubba's Bar-B-Q, web site, 7810-F Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, Merrifield Plaza, 703-560-8570, right by the Burmese place, closed Sunday (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | Citysearch | Yelp | Gayot]

The pork here is quite good, the staff can be rude. Get the pork and the fries.

Punjab Dhaba, 7263-F Arlington Blvd, Loehmann's Plaza, Falls Church, VA, 703-698-5262 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | food-plan | Falls Church News Press]

The best tandoori, great breads, and excellent lentil dumplings. The dosas (see South Indian, for a description of dosas) are no joke either. Great atmosphere also, and cheaper than average. The special Uttapam dish is great as well. The counter food is good, though mixed, sometimes too salty.

And after you are done eating, you can go see an Indian movie in the Indian movie theater in the Loehmann’s Plaza mall. Some even have English subtitles, but don’t worry if they don’t. In any case, if you come here start with the Tandoori but note that it takes fifteen minutes because it is done properly fresh.

In the 1980s and early '90s, I could still find excellent ethnic food -- particularly Vietnamese -- in Arlington and Clarendon, but more recently, I've watched well-established suburban eateries march toward the exurbs. Take Madhu Ban, the excellent Indian vegetarian restaurant that used to be in Clarendon: As the area gentrified, rents rose, and the owner, Munshi Ram, moved out. He reopened his restaurant as Punjab Dhaba in Loehmann's Plaza in Falls Church, closer to the Dulles corridor and the high-tech boom that helped double the Indian population in the Washington region from fewer than 40,000 in 1990 to some 78,000 in 2000. A dhaba is typically a roadside cafe, and this one is right next to the Bollywood movie theater. I can tell when the Indian movies start and end by watching the flow of crowds at the restaurant.

"Ethnic Goes Exurban: Washington's Sprawl, As Told Through Its Migrating Restaurants," by Tyler Cowen, The Washington Post, September 3, 2006

Lebanese Butcher and Restaurant, 109 East Annandale Rd. at Annandale and Rt.29, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-2012, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Falls Church News-Press | City Paper]

Superb mom and pop Lebanese place, maybe the best Lebanese place up and running right now. Everything here tastes like real food, unlike so much of what you eat in this country. Perhaps the Lamb Ouzi is best.

Thanh Son Tofu, 6793/A Wilson Blvd., Eden Center, Falls Church, VA, 703-534-1202 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [eGullet]

They serve one main dish, tofu. That’s right, just slabs of tofu, done three main ways. Five for a dollar. The best tofu around, period. Tofu to die for. Tofu. Wonderful tofu. The Vietnamese love this place. By the way, you’d better be in the mood for tofu.

Panjshir, 924 West Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-536-4566, closed Sunday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Gayot]

Panjshir II, 224 Maple Avenue West, Vienna, VA, 703-281-4183, closed Sunday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

The premier gourmet Afghan place. The two branches are indistinguishable, as the food is cooked in the same kitchen. The kebabs are good but boring, get the stews, but especially the side dishes. The Kadu, the pumpkin, is a must. One side order serving is usually not enough for two people, so get two. This place offers many wonders. I love the apple, prunes, and walnut combinations.

Saturday lunch is an excellent deal. For dinner for two, order all of the side dishes, plus the Mantu. The service is a bit slow, I think they do it on purpose, though for no good reason.

Viet Bistro, in Eden Center, Arlington, off Wilson Boulevard, near Rt. 7 (approximately 6801 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA), 703-538-7575, in the corner of the mall closest to Wilson Blvd. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper]

Right now this is the best place in the Eden Center and indeed the best Vietnamese place around. Finer and fresher than Four Sisters. Get the baby clams, the caramel fish, the frogs’ legs, the eel, anything with lemon grass, and the shaking beef. Consistently tasty and refined. Good for vegans and vegetarians also, first-rate tofu. Don’t miss it.

The Best

Photos from a loyal reader:

Pho 75, 3103 Graham Road, Suite B, Falls Church, VA, 703-204-1490, go early to avoid the line (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

Other locations:

• 1721 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-525-7355
  
• 382 Elden Street, Herndon, VA, 703-471-4145
  
• 771 Hungerford Drive, Rockville, MD, 301-309-8873
  
• 1510 University Blvd. East, Hyattsville, MD, 301-434-7844
  

Do not fear tripe and the other nasty bits. Learn to eat for crunch and texture.