Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

La Sandia, web site, Tysons Corner Center, Level 1, McLean, VA, by Barnes and Noble at the end opposite Bloomingdales (in blue on mall map), 703-893-2222

The new Rick Sandoval place, it opened in May of 2008. I went during the first week and thought it was clearly the best Mexican place around. Sandoval places don’t stay great for long, so now is the time to go.

It’s traditional Mexican rather than fusion but genuine and with high quality ingredients. The tortillas are excellent as is the guacamole and the queso fundido; make sure you use the sauce on the latter, and in a tortilla. I liked the chile relleno, the skirt steak tacos, and especially the carnitas. The chicken tamale was disappointing. The prices are entirely reasonable and in fact cheaper than the other restaurants in that lower level Tysons area. The existence of this place makes me very happy. Beware the crowds, however, at peak times it is very hard to get in here and they don't take traditional reservations.

Chinese-Korean (Kyung Ju Restaurant? - sorry the business card is in Kangul only!), 2847 Gallows Road, at Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, in the strip mall with the H Mart, 703-645-8787 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

This place gives a good overview of Chinese-Korean food, a bit gooey, a bit sweet, and with liberal use of ketchup. I don’t like the genre, but I don’t want to put you off trying it. The staff is friendly and charming, plus they have some regular Korean dishes as well. For me it is a dominated asset, but if you never went it would be a shame.

Chima Steakhouse, 8010 Towers Crescent Drive, Suite 100, Vienna, VA, 703-595-7755 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Yelp]

The new Brazilian steak house, churrascaria, very stylish, draws a mod crowd of wealthy Latinos and sometimes Arabs. Lots of fun, not cheap, the lamb and the pork caked in cheese are the best. The salads could be improved. I like Fogo de Chao better, but because of proximity, and a Brazilian-loving daughter, I’ll end up going here yet again.

Born Restaurant, web site, 144 Maple Avenue West, Vienna, VA, 703-255-5800, closed 3 to 5 weekdays. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

I dislike most suburban Thai these days. It is too sweet and too trendy. This place is different. It’s not as good as my favorites, but it’s well above average. They are still trying to give the food strong and genuine tastes. It is not as spicy as I would like, but I can go here with a clear conscience. Try the appetizers and soups. A good alternative if you are looking to eat Thai near Vienna, though don’t go expecting Thai X-ing or Columbia Pike.

This is where La Provence used to be.

East of Magruders and west of Rose Restaurant

Steamed Wasabi Shumai, so so

Tom Yum Goong, outstanding

Larb Gei, OK

Thai Spicy Basil - too sweet; make sure you ask for the spicy fish sauce

Rose Restaurant, 126 W. Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-255-9696 or 703-255-2557 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Falls-Church News Press | Chowhound]

Yes this is from the folks who brought you the old Café Rose, in Falls Church. The new incarnation is brighter, quicker, and has a broader menu. The eggplant appetizer is first-rate, the yogurt dipping sauce for the bread excellent. The two stews are both good, the best kabob is the lamb, one of the best kabobs around right now, very juicy. Very low prices, in terms of value-added this is a real winner. The velvet paintings on the wall only add to the atmosphere.

Yas Bakery, and Gourmet Groceries, 131 A West Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-242-2800 or 703-242-4050, across from Magruder’s, not easily visible from the street. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [insider pages]

I don’t usually cover ethnic groceries, but they bake their own bread and it is #1 in the whole area. First you grab a number, then you wait, sometimes up to fifteen minutes if there is a crowd. It comes out fresh, piping hot, absolutely delicious. Worth a visit, and yes you will come back. It doubles as northern Virginia’s best grocery.

Pauli Moto's, web site, 7852-L Tysons Corner Center, McLean, VA (Tysons I), 703-556-7777 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [MenuPages | WaPo | City Paper | Tarting It Up | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

This is by Pauli Moto, the guy with the TV show and the fancy nouvelle Asian place in Philadelphia. I suppose he showed up for the opening, or something like that.

The food here is carefully made, reasonably tasty, and no doubt it is the best restaurant in Tysons Mall. The seafood is quite fresh. That said, I find the place a bore, and a somewhat expensive bore at that. Best for when there are lines everywhere else and you need to eat somewhere before the movie.

My first evaulation stands.

House of Mandarin, 165 Glyndon Street SE, Vienna, VA, 703-281-9600 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

This old standby was a boring Chinese restaurant for eleven years. Now they have a Chinese menu and it is much improved. Ask for the Chinese menu and ignore the rest. I expect this place will continue to improve, I will keep my eye on it. Small and homey, a nice Vienna institution.

Las Perlitas, 147 Maple Avenue West, Vienna, VA, 703-319-8500, opens at 9 a.m. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

The boss is from El Salvador, but they have some items from Honduras, and also Peru and Mexico. Their most original dish is the Platillo Hondureno, with tomatillo sauce, beans rolled into the flat enchilada, original and quite good.

Sunflower Vegetarian Restaurant, web site, 2531 Chain Bridge Road, Vienna, VA, 703-319-3888, just a bit south of Nutley Road (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Many vegetarian dishes, good quality ingredients, but I find each dish combines too many ingredients. Many vegetarians love this place, though. If you want it really spicy, speak up, don't just say "spicy" or they will treat you like a wimp.

For real vegetarian food, see Indian and Southern Indian.

Nizam's, web site, 523 Maple Avenue West, Vienna, VA, 703-938-8948 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Washingtonian | Wash Times | WaPo (Phyllis Richman) | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Doner Kebab on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday. A full-priced restaurant, and old-fashioned in style, but the food is good. A Vienna institution, pretending to be a real fancy restaurant. I like the ravioli in yogurt sauce.

Neisha, web site (Flash), 6037 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-933-3788, in the Culmore Center, on Rt. 7, near Bailey’s Crossroads (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Other locations:
7924 Tysons Corner Center, McLean, VA, 703-883-3588
4445 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-966-7088

Mom and pop Thai, with yuppie pretensions at the fringes. Tasty, cheap, but for me somehow not satisfying. The flavors are a little too sweet for my taste. Has started drawing some customers away from Duangrat’s.

Pilin, web site, 116 West Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-5850, on Rt. 7, a tiny bit west of Rt. 29 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

No surprises, but it delivers. Better than Tara Thai on Maple Avenue in Vienna. In any Thai place I recommend the Mee Grob.

There is a separate branch of this restaurant in the mall on Rt. 7 where Tower Records is located: 8385 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA, 703-556-9191 [openlist | Yelp] The Leesburg Pike branch is more of a lunch place, and not as good as Pilin, but it is certainly good enough to go to and enjoy. Cheaper and quicker as well. The place also has some Vietnamese specialties, which are good as well.

Between 1960 and 2006, the District's population dropped from close to 800,000 to just 550,000, about 20 percent of whom live below the poverty line. High taxes, bad schools and expensive housing impelled people to leave for the suburbs, taking their businesses with them. Immigrants also began following the new opportunities -- settling outside the city. During the same period, Tysons Corner went from a cow patch to a bunch of auto dealerships to a first-tier shopping and business center. Small wonder that would-be restaurateurs such as Nat Kittayapifon, the manager at Pilin, chose Tysons over the District. "We were the first Thai restaurant in Fairfax County 17 years ago," he remembers. "Now I can count 10 on my fingers with no problem."

"Ethnic Goes Exurban: Washington's Sprawl, As Told Through Its Migrating Restaurants," by Tyler Cowen, The Washington Post, September 3, 2006

Anita's, web site, several branches, the main one is on Rt. 123 in Vienna, often they are open quite late. 521 E. Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-255-1001 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

10880 Lee Highway, Fairfax, VA, 703-385-2965
13921 Lee Jackson Memorial Hwy, Chantilly, VA, 703-378-1717
701 Elden Street, Herndon, VA, 703-481-1441
9278 Old Keene Mill Road, Burke, VA, 703-455-3466

Once an excellent restaurant, now merely a good restaurant, sometimes a mediocre one. An attempt to mimic the food from New Mexico. Go spicy here, if you can. I like the Mr. T's special, spicy pork with potatoes. Quick, convenient, and sometimes hits the spot. Still has a place in my repertoire, whether it deserves it or not. And the atmosphere is total, classic Vienna Virginia. A good hang-out. The breakfast specials look intriguing, but I have never tried them.

Pollo Adovado

Mr T

Bread & Kabob, web site, 3407 Payne Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-845-2900, Bailey's Crossroad, next to Jerusalem Restaurant, north side of Rt. 7, east of Peking Gourmet Inn, usually open. Also a branch in Vienna: 126 W. Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-255-9696 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Falls Church News-Press | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

My favorite here is the Dizi. Dizi is "traditional Iranian lamb stew with beans, chick-peas, onion, potato, tomato, garlic, dried lime, rolled oat and spices cooked overnight and served in the same pot." One of those meals where the consumer contributes to the production process, using what appear to be instruments of dental torture. The kabobs, while good, do not stand up to the competition elsewhere.

Open Friday and Saturday nights until 5:00 a.m.; they also serve Kalle-Pacheh and Haleem at those times.

Lebnan Zaman, 8411 Old Courthouse Road, Vienna, VA, 703-748-1400 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp]

A neglected place, surprisingly authentic given its Tysons location. The dishes with yogurt sauce are great, and none of the others are bad. Reasonable prices and good selection. The atmosphere is “order at the counter,” not fine dining. They have hookah in the front parlor, if you want to get stoned. Recommended, go soon in case they don’t make it in the long run.

Also see, "Local Hookah Bars," by Monica Bhide, The Washington Post, September 25, 2005

Lebanese Taverna, web site, 5900 Washington Blvd., Arlington, VA, 703-241-8681, not far from Falls Church (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Economist | Silver Chips Online | WBFN | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Gayot]

Other locations

• 2641 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-265-8681
  
• 1840 G International Drive, Tysons Galleria, McLean, VA, 703-847-5244
  
• 1101 South Joyce Street, Pentagon Row, Arlington, VA, 703-415-8681 (online maps show wrong location - Pentagon Row is south of I-395, at the corner of Army Navy Drive and South Joyce Street)

Very tasty Lebanese food. Draws an older, more traditional sort of Virginia crowd. Don't let them put you off. Good yogurt sauce, especially when pomegranates are involved.

Seoul Gomtang (now Songbird Korean Bar BQ), 8413 Old Courthouse Road, Vienna, VA , 703-821-1110 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

Their specialty is the beef soup.

Woo Lae Oak, web site, 1500 S. Joyce Street, Arlington, VA, 703-521-3706, also in Tysons Corner at 8240 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA, 703-827-7300 (small international chain) (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Korean DC (Arlington) | Korean DC (Tysons) | Washingtonian | WaPo (Tysons) | WaPo (Arlington) | City Paper (Tysons) | City Paper (Arlington) | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp]

The best of the mainstream Korean places, as opposed to the mom and pops. You could even take a business client here. The best place to go for an introduction to Korean food, and the place with the best ingredients, though the overall feel of the restaurant is a bit sterile for my tastes. There now seems to be a branch at Tysons Corner as well, on Rt.7, just west of Capitol Grille.

Yama, 328 Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-242-7703 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Above-average sushi, and a good Vienna location. Good eel, a good place to know.

That's Amore, web site, 150 Branch Road SE, Vienna, VA, 703-281-7777, usually open except for weekend lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Multiple locations.

If the name doesn't scare you off, the people walking through the front door will. But this is a fun place, and the food is not bad. Beware the non-convex set: portions feed several and cost much, so it is uneconomical to go alone or with a single companion.

East Chateau, 146 Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-255-2588 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

Mostly Pan-Asian, with an emphasis on boring Chinese, but they have a few Indonesian dishes, plus I want to pad this section (Indonesian) a bit. A good change of pace for Vienna if you go Indonesian.

Amma Vegetarian Kitchen, web site, 344-A Maple Avenue East, Vienna, VA, 703-938-5328, Chain Bridge Road, just across from Outback Steakhouse (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp]

Also in Georgetown, 3291 M Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-625-6625 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Strictly Indian, strictly vegetarian, mostly dosas. Excellent channa (chickpeas). This place significantly ups the options for Vienna dining. I’ve never tried the Georgetown branch.

Bombay Tandoor, web site, 8603 Westwood Center Drive, Vienna, VA, 703-734-2202. Near the auto dealerships but off Rt. 7, impossible to spot from the street, call for exact directions, not hard to get to. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

An attempt to create an upscale Indian place for the nouveau richesse Indians who work in the software firms out near Dulles. Better than average. I like the tandoori and spinach best. For those who don’t want the mom and pop atmosphere, but still want tasty and authentic food. Recommended.

La Provence, 144 West Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-242-3777 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Falls Church News-Press | WaPo (Eve Zibart) | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Update May 2007: This place is closed - Born Restaurant is now there.

The outside looks ghastly, but the food is of surprisingly high quality. The sort of French restaurant that uses a lot of thyme. Not cheap, but it delivers consistently. Some of the fish portions are too small, but it's hard to go wrong here. Better than La Cote d'Or, which has fallen to pieces (now larger and moved around the corner), although perhaps you should try Bistro des Celestins, their new accompanying comfort food bistro.

Maestro, web site, 1700 Tysons Blvd., Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Tysons Corner, McLean, VA, 703-917-5498 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Mobil | Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Super expensive, very fine, very yummy. They don’t quite have enough different flavors to justify the nine-course option, but this is one of the very best places around. Northern Italian, but eclectically so. Fine meats.

Bob Kinkead's Colvin Run Tavern, web site, 8045 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA, at Tysons, Rt.7, right behind Tiffany's, in the same mall (Fairfax Square) with Morton’s and Gucci, 703-356-9500 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | The Hill | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Extreme Chefs | Yelp | Gayot]

This place is getting better all the time, although it had a rocky start. My last visit was superb. I suspect they have worked out the kinks, and produced one of Virginia’s best restaurants. Tom Sietsema recommends the squid and crab napoleon and the breast of squab. This is by the Kinkead’s guy, of course.

Pauli Moto’s Asian Bistro (web site), in the reburbished part of Tysons Corner Center Mall, 7852L Tysons Corner Center, 1961 Chain Bridge Road, McLean, VA, 703-893-9400 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | Yelp]

NOW CLOSED. This is by Pauli Moto, the guy with the TV show and the fancy nouvelle Asian place in Philadelphia. I suppose he showed up for the opening, or something like that. The food here is carefully made, reasonably tasty, and no doubt it is the best restaurant in Tysons Mall. The seafood is quite fresh. That said, I find the place a bore, and a somewhat expensive bore at that. Best for when there are lines everywhere else and you need to eat somewhere before the movie.

Sweet Ginger, in Danor Plaza, 120B Branch Road SE, near Maple Avenue, Vienna, VA, 703-319-3922 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Gayot]

Vienna goes Pan-Asian. Again, note that the Pan-Asian concept started off as a bold innovation, now it is usually an excuse to get a sugary and inauthentic version of the real thing. Go to Sichuan Village instead and get the pig’s maw with ginger and garlic.

Clyde's, web site, Reston Town Center, 11905 Market Street, Reston, VA, 703-787-6601, plus branches near Tysons, in Georgetown, and in Chevy Chase (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Don Rockwell | openlist | Gayot]

When dining with the wimpy, I go to the Tysons one (8332 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA, 703-734-1901) which is across from Borders, back behind Rt. 7 a bit and not visible from the road. The bar scene here is unattractive, but the food is pretty good, reliable, and not overpriced. Many will scorn this place, but it comes in handy.

Morton's

• web site, 8075 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA, 703-883-0800, look for Tiffany's and Chili's, park, and walk to the west side of the mall (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Gayot]

• web site, 1050 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-955-5997 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | Gayot]

• web site, 3251 Prospect Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-342-6258 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Gayot]
  
• Also branches in Arlington, Bethesda, and Reston.

At all branches, beware the cigar smokers.

A dominant restaurant. Affordable at lunchtime, which makes a great buy. It's hard to find better beef than this. High quality on all fronts. The chopped sirloin for lunch is an amazing bargain. Dinner looks very expensive, but since the steaks feed at least two people, just order one.

Panjshir, 924 West Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-536-4566, closed Sunday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Gayot]

Panjshir II, 224 Maple Avenue West, Vienna, VA, 703-281-4183, closed Sunday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

The premier gourmet Afghan place. The two branches are indistinguishable, as the food is cooked in the same kitchen. The kebabs are good but boring, get the stews, but especially the side dishes. The Kadu, the pumpkin, is a must. One side order serving is usually not enough for two people, so get two. This place offers many wonders. I love the apple, prunes, and walnut combinations.

Saturday lunch is an excellent deal. For dinner for two, order all of the side dishes, plus the Mantu. The service is a bit slow, I think they do it on purpose, though for no good reason.

Shamshiry, web site, 8607 Westwood Center Drive, Vienna, VA, 703-448-8883. Off of Route 7, near the Dulles access road. Not visible from any road. Turn left at the right place, and head towards the back. Near Oriental Regency, down a bit from United Airlines. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [zabihah | Washingtonian | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

An excellent Persian place. Kabobs only, which I usually find dry and unexciting, but this place is a winner. Best rice in the area, very fragrant. The Barberry Rice and Cherry Rice, with chicken or beef respectively, are highly worthwhile. The Barberry Rice is wonderfully tangy and sour and the berries are luscious. What kind of rice you order is the real decision here, not what kind of meat. Ask for the beef medium rare, or even rare, if you order meat. The salmon is my favorite, with Zereshk Polo, make sure you rub Maast Moosir (a kind of thick yogurt sauce) into the whole thing, liberally. Excellent people-watching also, if you are interested in the Persian upper-middle class.