Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide

Nava Thai, web site, 11301 Fern Street, Wheaton, MD, 240-430-0495 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

At any point in time there are four or five ethnic places which are way better than the rest. Nava Thai joins that select group. Everything tastes so real and it is the closest thing to Thai street food that I’ve had in the U.S. The Floating Market Soup is excellent, although too spicy for many. The Penang Curry – usually a boring dish – is a revelation. The tamarind sauce on the roast chicken is very good. The curry puffs are recommended as well. The service can be a little slow and not every dish is great (though all are at least good if you are confused just mimic the Thai customers with your order), but right now this is one of the places to visit. It also attracts more Thai customers than any other place with the possible exception of Thai Square.

Cee Fine Thai Dining, web site, 9901 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax, VA, 703-293-9898 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | Yelp | Gayot]

Above average Thai, good mee krob, more whitebread atmosphere than most, slightly more expensive than average. This is a good place to bring people who expect the restaurant to be “nice,” although it can’t compare to Thai Square, much less Thai X-Ing.

Born Restaurant, web site, 144 Maple Avenue West, Vienna, VA, 703-255-5800, closed 3 to 5 weekdays. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo]

I dislike most suburban Thai these days. It is too sweet and too trendy. This place is different. It’s not as good as my favorites, but it’s well above average. They are still trying to give the food strong and genuine tastes. It is not as spicy as I would like, but I can go here with a clear conscience. Try the appetizers and soups. A good alternative if you are looking to eat Thai near Vienna, though don’t go expecting Thai X-ing or Columbia Pike.

This is where La Provence used to be.

East of Magruders and west of Rose Restaurant

Steamed Wasabi Shumai, so so

Tom Yum Goong, outstanding

Larb Gei, OK

Thai Spicy Basil - too sweet; make sure you ask for the spicy fish sauce

Thai X-ing, 515 Florida Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-332-4322, no lunch, All take-out (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [InTowner | Washingtonian | Don Rockwell | WaPo | City Paper]

This place is becoming legendary. One guy cooks for you and it takes a long time. I have yet to go. It is supposed to have quirky décor, and the reviews differ on whether any seats are available at all. The salmon in coconut milk is supposed to be great. Here is the menu: http://www.inshaw.com/blog/Thai%20X-ing.htm. Patrons are advised to call in advance to avoid long waits. Let me know what you think.

From a loyal TCEDG reader:

Update February 16, 2007: Four chairs, one table, A+ decor, and the best Asian food in D.C. Nothing nearby comes close. Staff = 1, so you must call not only for reservations, but indeed hours in advance with an actual order so he can start making your food. I loved the salmon in red curry sauce, the pad thai, the larb, and some amazing chicken dish with the guy's last name on it; the drunken noodles are recommended as well. But I am not not not saying the other dishes are worse.

I'll never view the theory of the firm in the same light again. Monitoring doesn't work, and who needs division of labor anyway? The coolest place in DC right now, by far.

Chaba Thai Restaurant, web site, 2972 Gallows Road, Falls Church, VA, 703-205-2430

Right near the Lee Highway Multiplex and thus it has a convenient location for many moviegoers. But it is not above average. The watercress salad is one good dish to get, but the net value added of this place is probably locational only.

Sakoontra, web site, 12300-C Price Club Plaza, Fairfax, VA, 703-818-8886 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

I went here once, and enjoyed the fried watercress salad. The rest was fine but I thought only average. A number of readers have sent positive reports, but I don’t yet get it.

Urban Thai (formerly Thai Smile), 561 23rd Street, Arlington, VA, 703-979-0777, between Fern and Eads, near Crystal City (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window)

A reader tells me it is great.

There are many other Thai places, more than I can try or list.

Thai Seafood and Grill, The romance Restaurant, web site, 2732 Crain Highway, Waldorf, MD, 301-932-4388 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Yelp]

I’ve given up adding random Thai places to this list. There are too many of them, and too few are unique. But an avid reader recommends this one, plus Wheaton and environs is probably the best neighborhood for Thai restaurants. I bet this one is worth a try.

Pad Thai, 11199 Lee Highway, Unit E, Fairfax, VA, in front of Expo Design Center, 703-591-2525 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

For the most part, I am bored with Thai food, except when I have the seafood at Duangrat’s. But this place is refreshing, nothing radical but everything tastes as if one is approaching Thai food anew. Recommended, especially for those stuck in Fairfax. Also very reasonably priced.

Bangkok Blues, web site, 926 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-534-0095 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Gayot]

The former home of a Laotian place, same patrons. Good Thai food, but not at the very top, compared to the competition. I love the blues videos they show, but at the same time it comes off as a bit of affectation too. There is live music as well.

Khun Ya, 328 Elden Street, Herndon, VA, 703-742-8881 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper]

Good Thai place, rounds out the Herndon ethnic offerings nicely.

Update May 24, 2006: a reader says this place is closed and recommends Chao Phra Ya, 2465 Centreville Road, J1, Herndon, VA, 703-713-0103

Luang Thai or Thai Luang, web site, 171 Elden Street, Herndon, VA, 703-478-2233, recommended by a correspondent, on Baron Cameron/Elden Street, in the Virginia Power Building, across from an Outback (“somewhat,” writes Rick Gonzalez), hidden from the street. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Hidden from street, that is usually a good sign.

Manee Thai, web site, 2500 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-920-2030 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

An excellent Thai place, in the Columbia Pike Thai row.

Thai Square, web site, 3217 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, just east of Glebe (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | Wash Times | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

I've been going to this place quite a lot lately. It is one of the three or four best Thai places around, and probably the one most popular with Thais. Excellent atmosphere, lots of small Thai kids. The best satay around, without a doubt. The best green curry. Very original pig's knuckle dish with fragrant spicing. Very highly recommended. Not as fancy as Duangrat's but in some regards a more durable restaurant.

Bangkok 54, web site, 2919 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-521-4070 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Don Rockwell | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A reader recommends. I have yet to go.

Across the street from Rincome Thai.

Fried Soft Shell Crabs

Penang

Pad Cha from the Sea

Mango Sticky Rice

Rincome Thai Cuisine, web site, 3030 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA, 703-979-0144, in the Travel Lodge (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Lately it has been too sugary. That being said, I will take the sugary Mee Krob. Attached to a hotel. One drawback: you have to take an elevator up to the second floor for the bathrooms. But not up to the other Thai places on the same road in the same area. By the way, a reader recommends Bangkok 54 across the street.

Po Siam, 3807 Mount Vernon Avenue, Alexandria, VA, 703-548-3925 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Not as good as it used to be, but a Thai place is never bad.

Neisha, web site (Flash), 6037 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-933-3788, in the Culmore Center, on Rt. 7, near Bailey’s Crossroads (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Other locations:
7924 Tysons Corner Center, McLean, VA, 703-883-3588
4445 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Washington, DC, 202-966-7088

Mom and pop Thai, with yuppie pretensions at the fringes. Tasty, cheap, but for me somehow not satisfying. The flavors are a little too sweet for my taste. Has started drawing some customers away from Duangrat’s.

Cattleya Restaurant, web site, 3981 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax, VA, 703-934-8880 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

A good Thai restaurant, mom and pop in orientation, very friendly. I like best here the beef curries (not usually my favorite dish, I might add), I recommend a visit. We’re now at to the point where Fairfax proper has better dining than does Arlington!

Benjarong, web site, 855-C Rockville Pike, Wintergreen Shopping Center, Rockville, MD, 301-424-5533, closed Sunday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A very good Thai place, somewhat more expensive than most but also nicer than average and better than average.

Thai Hut, 408 South Van Dorn Street, Alexandria, VA, 703-823-5357 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [openlist | Yelp]

Another of the Van Dorn St. entries on this list. Not fully consistent, but the peaks are high. I love the Crispy Fish in Black Bean Sauce, although the other whole fish dish is not so great. But order the fish, plus the Mee Krob and the Nam Sod, and you are in for a treat.

Cheap rents, easy parking and highway proximity have made possible places there like the Thai Hut on Van Dorn Street, where I go now to find my favorite mee krob.

"Ethnic Goes Exurban: Washington's Sprawl, As Told Through Its Migrating Restaurants," by Tyler Cowen, The Washington Post, September 3, 2006

Update: I believe this place is now closed.

Ghin Na Ree, 2509 N. Harrison St. and Lee Highway, Arlington, VA, 703-536-1643, closed Monday lunch (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [City Paper | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

A classic mom and pop. They even let the small child have one of the tables for her toys and crayons. Charming decor, and one of the most authentic Thai places around. Is this the best Thai place in the area? No. Is it worth going anyway? Yes. Spicy.

Dusit, 2404 University Boulevard West, Silver Spring, MD, Wheaton, 301-949-4140 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

Wheaton is an ethnic food center, and here is one of its Thai places. There are many Thai places in Maryland, and as far as I can tell, they are all excellent.

Pilin, web site, 116 West Broad Street, Falls Church, VA, 703-241-5850, on Rt. 7, a tiny bit west of Rt. 29 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

No surprises, but it delivers. Better than Tara Thai on Maple Avenue in Vienna. In any Thai place I recommend the Mee Grob.

There is a separate branch of this restaurant in the mall on Rt. 7 where Tower Records is located: 8385 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA, 703-556-9191 [openlist | Yelp] The Leesburg Pike branch is more of a lunch place, and not as good as Pilin, but it is certainly good enough to go to and enjoy. Cheaper and quicker as well. The place also has some Vietnamese specialties, which are good as well.

Between 1960 and 2006, the District's population dropped from close to 800,000 to just 550,000, about 20 percent of whom live below the poverty line. High taxes, bad schools and expensive housing impelled people to leave for the suburbs, taking their businesses with them. Immigrants also began following the new opportunities -- settling outside the city. During the same period, Tysons Corner went from a cow patch to a bunch of auto dealerships to a first-tier shopping and business center. Small wonder that would-be restaurateurs such as Nat Kittayapifon, the manager at Pilin, chose Tysons over the District. "We were the first Thai restaurant in Fairfax County 17 years ago," he remembers. "Now I can count 10 on my fingers with no problem."

"Ethnic Goes Exurban: Washington's Sprawl, As Told Through Its Migrating Restaurants," by Tyler Cowen, The Washington Post, September 3, 2006

Suporn, web site, 2304 Price Avenue, Silver Spring, MD, 301-946-7613 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | Yelp]

One of the best Thai places around, it has real bite. Thai food is going the way of Chinese food, where most restaurants have the same menu and same taste. Not this one. Most of the dishes sound ordinary but don’t be put off by that.

Duangrat's, web site, 5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, near Bailey's Crossroads, 703-820-5775, usually open (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | food-plan | openlist | Yelp | Gayot]

Gourmet Thai at reasonable prices. The ruling Thai restaurant in this area. There is another branch of the same restaurant, with a slightly different menu, right next door, called Rabieng's. Has more modern decor than Duangrat's, but fewer offerings, although I am told you can still order off the Duangrat's menu. It used to be that every dish here was great, then for a while it turned spottier. Now it has been reinvigorated. It remains not fully consistent but the best dishes are better than ever and the menu is more innovative than ever before. The weekend “Thai tapas” are especially fun. Go, and go often.

Lex Cajun Grill, 2608 Connecticut Avenue, Washington, DC, 202-745-0015 (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | WaPo | City Paper | openlist | Yelp]

No, you didn't read the category heading (Cajun-Thai) wrong. This is a dual restaurant, rather than an attempt to mix. A cute idea, but is there really any advantage in it?

Ruan Thai, 11407 Amherst Avenue, Wheaton, MD, 301-942-0075, not so far from Rt.29 and University Blvd. (Metro Trip Planner - opens in new window) [Washingtonian | City Paper | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

My Thai restaurant of choice, after Duangrat’s. Not just the usual stuff. Fresh ingredients, and truly spicy. When it comes to ordering, you can’t go wrong. This place is exactly what a Thai restaurant should aspire to be.